[T3] type 4 2000cc oil pressure and overheating problem

[Jonathan Stiles]

Uh oh! No!!! That is the CORRECT default orientation. Without a thermostat,
the right flap is up and the left flap is down. So when a thermostat fails,
the oil cooler gets max cooling and the right and left  cylinder bank does
too.

I think raygreenwood has forgotten air to the oil cooler runs UNDER the
left flap to the oil cooler AND air runs OVER the left flap to the heads.
By lifting the flap up, the oil cooler's direct cooling air is disrupted
and the air to the cylinder heads is also disrupted, thus providing LESS
air to the oil cooler, warming the engine up. Good grief.

Pablo, avoid theSamba for advice. Hit the type2 list directly.

Jon Stiles

On Friday, December 9, 2011, Mike Fisher <fisherfarms at gmail.com> wrote:
> Pablo's flaps are messed up according to raygreenwood in this thread
> from the Samba in the Type 411-412 Forum.  I guess Greg will probably
> delete my Link?
>
> http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=5722718#5722718
>
>
> On Fri, Dec 9, 2011 at 8:42 AM, Jonathan Stiles <misterstiles at gmail.com>
wrote:
>> Pablo,
>>
>> Post the same question to the Type 2 list.
>>
>> www.type2.com
>>
>> I am on both and you may find more help from Type 4 experts.
>>
>> You have a unique setup. In the United States, your bus would have fuel
>> injection.
>>
>> Your oil pressure is within spec. The Schadek oil pump is a good one.
>>
>> Everything else seems fine and pretty normal.
>>
>> Like Jim says, you NEED the foam seal around the engine tin. Also, you
need
>> all of the seals intact. There are almost a dozen on a Type 4. If you are
>> missing any of the engine seals, fix them first, then go back to your
>> overheating problem. You also may be missing tin, the heat deflector
plate
>> above the muffler and your thermostatic cooling system.
>>
>> Refer to www.ratwell.com for a detailed list of tin, seals, deflector
>> plates and photos of each.
>>
>> It does sounds like you may be running lean and need to jet the carbs
>> correctly. Those are pretty small carbs for a 2000cc motor. They are
meant
>> for a 1700cc Type 4, but will work fine if set up correctly.
>>
>> Try switching to an electric fuel pump to get consistent cool fuel flow
>> without the worry of vapor-lock. Type 4 PDSIT carbs are prone to vapor
lock
>> and other maladies. Especially if the bakelite spacer is missing between
>> the intake manifold and the carburetors. There was a good reason VW
>> discontinued them and switched to fuel injection. They are
overcomplicated
>> and tricky to tune correctly. A set of Kadrons or 36mm Dellortos would
>> offer better performance, mileage, and reliability. Switching back to
Fuel
>> Injection would be the best, but considering your location, that may be
>> very difficult.
>>
>> Your timing is pretty good. Using your stock distributor and with those
>> carbs on a Type 4, you should be at 0 degrees to 5 degrees BTDC.
>>
>> What is your altitude? This changes the equation. I am at 5400 feet or
1650
>> meters above sea level. Less air means less cooling.
>>
>> Be VERY cautious about the accuracy of your guages. They only give you an
>> idea of temperature so unless you paid for a very expensive system, the
>> gauges can be off by up to 50 degrees both ways. I don't recommend using
>> them unless you are running a performance engine and racing.
>>
>> A good test of engine cooling is after you have been driving pull over.
>> Pull the dipstick. If the dipstick is so hot you can't touch it, you are
>> running too hot.
>>
>> Also, what kind of weight are you hauling around in that automatic? Be
>> careful not to overload your Bus. Refer to the max load of the vehicle
with
>> passengers and cargo and don't exceed it. The automatic buses are very,
>> very, very, slow, have to work harder and are prone to overheating. They
>> are fine on an American freeway, but as soon as you hit a hill...all bets
>> are off...
>>
>> I have close friends who live in Pucon, Chile. They drive a '77 Westfalia
>> with a Type 1 conversion. Much simpler, but even slower than yours I am
>> sure.
>>
>> Good Luck!
>>
>> Jon Stiles
>>
>> On Fri, Dec 9, 2011 at 5:21 AM, pablo vial de ruyt
>> <pablo_vent at hotmail.com>wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Hi, i from Chile and looking for real empirical experience, need help
for
>>> oil temp problem with my automatic Westfalia 1978 (stock 2000cc, type 4
-
>>> dual carbs solex 32-34 pdsit-3), my interest is only summer use with
long
>>> travels with my family (need fiability) ....temp range in my country in
>>> summer is 75-95 Fº. Rebuilt 20 or 30 type 1 engines without problems,
but
>>> first experience with a type 4. Is second time rebuilt my engine in 2
>>> month.....first time (without fuel pump push rod install) overheating
and
>>> melted after only 40 miles run......possible causes: plugs white lean,
>>> timing incorrect 10-12º btdc, 7,8 CR, possible low oil pressure,
etc....Now
>>> i rebuilt again (very expensive) crank completly machined 0,25 and
check,
>>> new bearings, new piston and barrels kit, heads ok, and install
aftermarket
>>> S> URL: <
http://lists.vwtype3.org/private.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org/attachments/20111209/a5317f8a/attachment.htm
>
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