[T3] Diagnosing Chronic Intermittant No Start Condition

[Jim Adney]

On 22 Feb 2011 at 10:30, Chris Sheridan wrote:

> I have a 70 fastback automatic, which has an interesting personality. I
> drive it to and from work each day no problem, then over the weekend my wife
> gets in it and it won't start for her.

The most common starting problem with the '68-71 ATs is that people 
forget that they won't start in P. They have to be in N, and 
sometimes it helps to jiggle the shift lever a bit to assure a better 
connection in the neutral safety switch.

> 1) Is the wire from the postive terminal to the regulator Key to the car
> starting? I currently have a standard terminal on the positive post, with
> the red wire attached to the post bolt using an eyehole big enough to clear
> the 8mm bolt. I just bought a positive line with an internal red pigtail
> wire, hoping the connection will be more solid.

That connection has to be good for the FI to work, but even if it's 
gone, the starter should work just fine. What you have now is 
probably okay. You cannot buy a replacment + cable today that's as 
good as the OE one that came with your car.

> 2) How big of an issues is the infamous 40 year old long wire from the
> solenoid to the starter switch? Is the resistance in this wire a factor over
> time like it is in the bus? It doesn't seem to be a factor since it starts
> fine most days and there is no glowing idiot light while I drive. Do people
> typically install the hard start relay to correct this on type 3s?

The cable itself is fine, but it sounds like your connection is bad. 
Here's what you need to do: Remove the 8 mm bolt, then using a pair 
of screwdrivers, spread the slot in the clamp until it can drop all 
the way down on the battery post. The top of the post should stick up 
thru the clamp. Then install the bolt and snug it up.  

NEVER pound the clamp down on the post. That will just damage the 
battery.

> 3) Assuming I can solve this problem, has anyone set up a dual battery
> system? Now that I have two non-returnable new batteries it wouldn't be much
> of a stretch to buy the isolator and have some insurance on the starting
> thing. If you go with two batteries, can you still use the stock 12v
> generator or must to upgrade to an alternator?

I've set up dual batteries, even without the isolator. It works just 
fine with the OE charging system until one of the batteries gets a 
shorted cell. When that happens, the good battery will then discharge 
thru the dead one. This doesn't kill the good battery, but it leaves 
it completely discharged.

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Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
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