[T3] Body Man (was "Need a great body man in westernLA/VenturaCounty)

[Bobsnotch at aol.com]

In a message dated 1/7/2011 8:47:06 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
topnotch at nycap.rr.com writes:

I have a  full set of NOS fenderbeading for the Crate, but it's a medium 
blue
instead  of the Sea blue, so barring trading this set to someone with a full
set of  sea blue Im going to paint it.  They have flex agents that are  used
when painting bumpers and such that are plastic... that's what I plan  to
use.  Any other ideas better than that? I don't like the idea of  painting
something that can expand and contract so much but.... its  probably the 
best
of the possibilities.




My paint supplier told me that IF you're installing the plastic pieces  
within 30 days, you don't need the flex agent. The reasoning behind it, is that 
 after 30 days, the flex agent hardens up anyway (so you're wasting your 
money).  For the beading, you might want to just dust the color, so you don't 
build it up  too thick, as that will still allow it to flex during 
installation. Just make  sure you scuff the surface, so the paint will stick. This is 
one of the problems  I see with t-3s that have been repainted using the OE 
beading (the paint  chipping off the beading), due to the paint not biting 
/grabbing the beading. 
 
When I repainted Sue's Fastback a couple of years ago (2008), I shot  the 
black beading in place, since it had been installed back in 91 when the car  
got it's first repaint. The thing I was looking at, was that the black 
beading  might have finally dried out enough, that the vinyl out gassing wouldn't 
lift  the paint from it. This is a possibility if painting new beading, as 
the vinyl  will outgas as it dries out. I hope this helps.  

Bob 65 Notch  S with sunroof and IRS (Krusty)
71 Notch (Krunchy)
64 T-34 Ghia  (Wolfie)
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