[T3] Body Man (was "Need a great body man in westernLA/VenturaCounty)
Bobsnotch at aol.com
Bobsnotch at aol.com
Sat Jan 8 07:27:27 PST 2011
In a message dated 1/7/2011 8:47:06 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
topnotch at nycap.rr.com writes:
I have a full set of NOS fenderbeading for the Crate, but it's a medium
blue
instead of the Sea blue, so barring trading this set to someone with a full
set of sea blue Im going to paint it. They have flex agents that are used
when painting bumpers and such that are plastic... that's what I plan to
use. Any other ideas better than that? I don't like the idea of painting
something that can expand and contract so much but.... its probably the
best
of the possibilities.
My paint supplier told me that IF you're installing the plastic pieces
within 30 days, you don't need the flex agent. The reasoning behind it, is that
after 30 days, the flex agent hardens up anyway (so you're wasting your
money). For the beading, you might want to just dust the color, so you don't
build it up too thick, as that will still allow it to flex during
installation. Just make sure you scuff the surface, so the paint will stick. This is
one of the problems I see with t-3s that have been repainted using the OE
beading (the paint chipping off the beading), due to the paint not biting
/grabbing the beading.
When I repainted Sue's Fastback a couple of years ago (2008), I shot the
black beading in place, since it had been installed back in 91 when the car
got it's first repaint. The thing I was looking at, was that the black
beading might have finally dried out enough, that the vinyl out gassing wouldn't
lift the paint from it. This is a possibility if painting new beading, as
the vinyl will outgas as it dries out. I hope this helps.
Bob 65 Notch S with sunroof and IRS (Krusty)
71 Notch (Krunchy)
64 T-34 Ghia (Wolfie)
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