[T3] Coil, Calipers, and Front Beam

[Keith Park]

If the front end was hit hard enough to bend a tie rod the beam is probably
bent too... which is probably why someone was getting rid of it.

Easy to tell though, it will bend the torsion arms first, pull the lower
arms AND bars as a unit and see if the bar protrudes thru the arm on the
inner part of the arm in the center of the opening, if its just a bit off
your probably OK but if its near the arm on one side the arm is toast. And
probably the beam too,  You can also check the condition of the inner
bushings this way too...you cant really tell about those without pulling the
arms out and if the beam wasn’t regularly greased or was lowered they are
usually toast.  IF these are bad it wont hold an alignment.

Keith

Top Notch Restorations
topnotch at nycap.rr.com 
http://www.a383ina68.addr.com/radiorest/main.htm
71 Squareback "Hothe"
65 Notchback "El Baja Rojo"
65 Squareback "Eggcrate"
87 golf "Winterat"
93 RX7 "Redstur"

-----Original Message-----
From: type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org
[mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org] On Behalf Of Adriel
Rowley
Sent: Sunday, July 03, 2011 1:37 AM
To: type3 at vwtype3.org
Subject: [T3] Coil, Calipers, and Front Beam


What does it mean when the primary resistance same as secondary resistance? 

Was static timing the engine a few days back, and after which it would not
start.  So, reset timing again; same results.  Tried adjusting the
distributor and changing the timing, as that is what the last thing that
happened before it would not start.  No change, so set it back to correct
position.  Decided then to check the points and they had carbon, so cleaned
them, and it was better.  Checked the valves, and it was a nasty mess of
loose adjusters and nuts, especially on the three four side.  Made it all
right including torquing the nuts to 200 inch pounds, with 0.006" exhaust
and 0.004" intake.  Not really much of an improvement.  So ran tests, and
have fuel, but the timing light is not picking up a signal from the spark
plug leads, and even more interesting, the coil lead.  Checked the coil
using Russ's method of voltage, and was the same on the primary and the
secondary.  Resistance is the same, so since that is the only thing out of
specification, suspect that as the problem.  Got fuel, air, but seem to be
lacking spark.  So, want to be sure before I have to reorganize the garage,
as cannot find the one Russ gave me. 

On a better note, was able to get another front beam, as I feel I am waiting
too much time waiting for help and trying to get it all together, especially
considering I put the hardware in a safe place... ;/  The beam I got today
is complete rim to rim and no play in any position, except on the passengers
side at three and nine and about an eighth inch if that.  Most of the rubber
boots are good and clean.  But does have a badly bent tie rod, but Brian
says he has one to give to me. Also, could be lowered so will need to check
it.  Plan on swapping it then replace what needs replacing once it is bolted
in.

How does one tell if the calipers are good?  Clean fluid came out and the
rubber hoses are brand new, so thinking of leaving them on and trying them. 
Stoked as they are the late model calipers I want to use.  I also got a
second set of late model calipers with the beam: what are they worth as
cores?

Also got the plastic plugs for the rear most interior fender bolts on a
Squareback, door contact switch, metal ring for the rubber cup around the
filler, the late door contact switch and some fender bolts with good soft
rubber washers, all of which are really hard to find and been looking for
some of them for over two years.

Anyone need a set of rims?  No place for them around here as cleaning out 
Loosing stuff I need, finding things I do not and getting to be too much. 


Thank you,
Adriel
 		 	   		  
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