[T3] fuel tank leak

[crash 69]

I hadn't thought of using that fiber washer inside the big nut.

Here's the latest report:

I decided to apply a "take no prisoners" approach to this problem, so here's
what I did.

1.  applied QuickSteel Epoxy (Wal-mart, 5 bucks) around the base of the
threaded outlet on the tank and waited for it to fully cure overnight.  This
is to seal any leaks coming from the welded area (I didn't see any leaks,
but figured it can't hurt)

2.  installed the tap with the red fiber washer between the filter flange
and tube flange

3.  found a thick, fibrous washer in my stash that fit perfectly inside the
big nut

So far, it's been 23 hours and no leaks!!  I'm going to keep an eye on it
for the next few days, in case that thick washer takes a while to absorb
fuel then leak.

FYI:
The rubber gasket that companies sell to seal the sending unit to the tank
is junk (my .02).  Mine started to delaminate in 2 weeks and was dropping
small pieces of rubber into the fuel!  I found an excellent alternative at a
Diesel truck parts dealer.  They carry a similar seal, but thicker and much
better material.  As a bonus, the bolt holes line up exactly!  I only had to
trim the outer perimeter a little, since it's a little "big".  The regular
VW one costs under $3, this good one is about $8.  Well worth the difference
in my opinion.  Because of the added thickness, the fuel gauge reads a
little "conservative" (ie less than what's in there).

Thanks to all.  Future report will be sent.
Dan

On Tue, Jul 5, 2011 at 4:45 AM, Dave Hall <dave at hallvw.clara.co.uk> wrote:

>
> It sounds as if that red fibre washer is what you should be using between
> the nut and the outer side of the flange.  I would guess the sock crush
> washer sghould be sealing the tank outlet to the outlet pipe flange, and
> the
> fibre washer spreads to stop any seepage from going out along the outlet
> pipe or up the threads of the nut.
>
> I've heard that pin-holes in a tank can be sealed by rubbing bar soap on
> them - maybe you can try something like that here - it probably won't have
> your engine blowing bubbles like Herbie did!
>
>
> Dave.
> UK VW Type 3&4 Club
> ===================
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org
> [mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org] On Behalf Of crash 69
> Sent: 04 July 2011 15:36
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Subject: Re: [T3] fuel tank leak
>
> I see.
>
> The filter flange is crushed VERY tightly on the tank nipple (good).  So
> much so that it would take a tool used with some force to get it off.
>  (This
> is the new, german filter I installed a few days ago.)  I have not wanted
> to
> do this, fearing I will ruin the smooth outer surface of the filter flange
> (it looks very good).  Therefore, I think the metal to metal seal is good.
>  It certainly looks like they've "mated" together well.  Then, I've been
> assembling it with the "red" o ring seal that came with the filter.  I'm
> locating the o ring between the aluminum filter flange and the steel outlet
> pipe flange.  The red seal is flat and fairly hard, not like a rubber o
> ring.  There is definitely fuel getting past this (why?), since it's coming
> out the bottom of the hole in the big nut.
>
> The outlet pipe flange is smooth, straight and there are absolutely no
> imperfections in the factory attachment to the pipe. You're right about the
> tight threads.  I did put some oil on there several days ago and it's been
> working much better.  I've had it off and on now several times, after each
> leaking "event".
>
> Happy 4th!!
>
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 4, 2011 at 8:57 AM, Jim Adney <jadney at vwtype3.org> wrote:
>
> > On 3 Jul 2011 at 18:49, crash 69 wrote:
> >
> > > So you're saying the tube flange should be tight to the big nut,
> > > with nothing in between.  The reason I'm asking this again is
> > > because of the parts diagram that we saw earlier showing the gasket
> > > between these two surfaces.
> >
> > Okay, looks like I've been wrong about this from the beginning. That
> > "gasket" sits between the outlet tube flange and the nut, so it can't
> > have anything to do with sealing. It must just be an anti-friction
> > washer to allow the nut to turn without turning the outlet pipe. That
> > means that the filter flange must be able to deform enough to create a
> > leak-tite metal-to-metal seal.
> >
> > You should check the filter flange to make sure it's been crushed
> > smooth enough to seal, and check the faces of the tank nipple and
> > outlet pipe flange to make sure they are clean and smooth. I also
> > remember that those nuts tend to be VERY tight. Oiling the threads
> > might help.
> >
> > --
> > *******************************
> > Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> > Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> > *******************************
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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