[T3] fuel tank leak

Keith Park topnotch at nycap.rr.com
Tue Jul 5 18:32:58 PDT 2011


You CAN assemble it with POR 15, that stuff will seal small pinholes and
leaks, but you will NEVER get it apart again!

Keith


Top Notch Restorations
topnotch at nycap.rr.com 
http://www.a383ina68.addr.com/radiorest/main.htm
71 Squareback "Hothe"
65 Notchback "El Baja Rojo"
65 Squareback "Eggcrate"
87 golf "Winterat"
93 RX7 "Redstur"


-----Original Message-----
From: type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org
[mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org] On Behalf Of Dave Hall
Sent: Tuesday, July 05, 2011 5:45 AM
To: type3 at vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] fuel tank leak


It sounds as if that red fibre washer is what you should be using between
the nut and the outer side of the flange.  I would guess the sock crush
washer sghould be sealing the tank outlet to the outlet pipe flange, and the
fibre washer spreads to stop any seepage from going out along the outlet
pipe or up the threads of the nut.

I've heard that pin-holes in a tank can be sealed by rubbing bar soap on
them - maybe you can try something like that here - it probably won't have
your engine blowing bubbles like Herbie did!


Dave.
UK VW Type 3&4 Club
===================


-----Original Message-----
From: type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org
[mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org] On Behalf Of crash 69
Sent: 04 July 2011 15:36
To: type3 at vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] fuel tank leak

I see.

The filter flange is crushed VERY tightly on the tank nipple (good).  So
much so that it would take a tool used with some force to get it off.  (This
is the new, german filter I installed a few days ago.)  I have not wanted to
do this, fearing I will ruin the smooth outer surface of the filter flange
(it looks very good).  Therefore, I think the metal to metal seal is good.
 It certainly looks like they've "mated" together well.  Then, I've been
assembling it with the "red" o ring seal that came with the filter.  I'm
locating the o ring between the aluminum filter flange and the steel outlet
pipe flange.  The red seal is flat and fairly hard, not like a rubber o
ring.  There is definitely fuel getting past this (why?), since it's coming
out the bottom of the hole in the big nut.

The outlet pipe flange is smooth, straight and there are absolutely no
imperfections in the factory attachment to the pipe. You're right about the
tight threads.  I did put some oil on there several days ago and it's been
working much better.  I've had it off and on now several times, after each
leaking "event".

Happy 4th!!



On Mon, Jul 4, 2011 at 8:57 AM, Jim Adney <jadney at vwtype3.org> wrote:

> On 3 Jul 2011 at 18:49, crash 69 wrote:
>
> > So you're saying the tube flange should be tight to the big nut, 
> > with nothing in between.  The reason I'm asking this again is 
> > because of the parts diagram that we saw earlier showing the gasket 
> > between these two surfaces.
>
> Okay, looks like I've been wrong about this from the beginning. That 
> "gasket" sits between the outlet tube flange and the nut, so it can't 
> have anything to do with sealing. It must just be an anti-friction 
> washer to allow the nut to turn without turning the outlet pipe. That 
> means that the filter flange must be able to deform enough to create a 
> leak-tite metal-to-metal seal.
>
> You should check the filter flange to make sure it's been crushed 
> smooth enough to seal, and check the faces of the tank nipple and 
> outlet pipe flange to make sure they are clean and smooth. I also 
> remember that those nuts tend to be VERY tight. Oiling the threads 
> might help.
>
> --
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
>
> _______________________________________________
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