[T3] Brake Lights

[Adriel Rowley]

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> Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2011 07:59:10 -0700
> From: jadney at vwtype3.org
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Subject: Re: [T3] Brake Lights
>
> >
> > I was working on the headlights when I noticed I did not have right
> > parking light.  That lead to me testing the brake lights and realized they
> > do not work.  Checked the filaments, and they are all good.  From what I
> > am understanding from Phil, Jack, and the diagram, 12 volts is supplied
> > with the key on, then goes to the switch on the master cylinder, then to
> > the left light, and finally right light and ground.  I have 12 volts at
> > the fuse box, but not at the brake switch (none at all six) or the rear
> > terminals.  Now what?
>
> Check your fuses, wiring, and double check your voltage readings. Remember
> that to get good voltage readings, you need a good ground reference.
>

So since fuses and ground is clean bear metal, then it is the wire supplying

power?


> The most common cause for your symptoms is that both brake light switches
> have gone bad, which is very common.
>

So the switches do not need 12 volts?! :O :?  I just cannot believe this as

already a couple said there should be...

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> From: Bobsnotch at aol.com
> Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2011 11:48:29 -0400
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Subject: Re: [T3] Brake Lights
>
>
> In a message dated 7/1/2011 10:59:18 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> jadney at vwtype3.org writes:
>
> The most common cause for your symptoms is that both brake light switches
> have gone bad, which is very common.
>
>
>
>
>
> On my 65 Notch, the common cause was mice (rodents) eating the wire. I had
> already bought the switches.:O
>
Where did they eat it?  There are wild cats that go though the yard, so be 
surprised, but explain a lot. ;/

Which is better, leads or jumpers?


Thank you so very much!