[T3] Brake pedal pushrod was Houston, we have ignition!
Dave Hall
dave at hallvw.clara.co.uk
Sun Jul 31 04:44:35 PDT 2011
I think I recall seeing different lengths for the pushrod mentioned in the
factory Workshop Manual, or a reference to a length that was shorter than
all the ones I have.
The parts book gives a 113 number for the early push-rod, and a 311 number
for the 67-on, so that solves the origin question as a Beetle part.
Dave.
UK VW Type 3&4 Club
===================
-----Original Message-----
From: type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org
[mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org] On Behalf Of
Bobsnotch at aol.com
Sent: 30 July 2011 23:38
To: type3 at vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] Houston, we have ignition!
In a message dated 7/30/2011 12:45:54 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
jadney at vwtype3.org writes:
On 29 Jul 2011 at 8:07, Bobsnotch at aol.com wrote:
> Actually I learned a couple of things. 1) I didn't have a late brake
pedal
> pushrod in my stash (only 2 earlies), so I temporarily stole the 1
> out
of
> the 71 Square-vert (still need 1 to replace it).
As of this morning, there's a good used late pushrod on its way to you via
First Class Mail.
Thank you.
> 2), You can't adjust the older early style pushrod out far enough, as
> there isn't enough stud to do this (the max length is 150 mm, with
> the 2 halfs butted together, and you need to be at least 150 mm to
> make the dual circuit master work correctly) hence the stealing of the
> 71's part.
This is weird. Could your early pushrod be from a beetle? I never
heard of anyone having to change the pushrod when they upgraded to a
tandem MC, I thought the early and late MCs that I have seen appear
to have the same geometry, so I don't understand why a different
pushrod would be necessary. I don't have an early one here to measure
against; has anyone else done this upgrade and run into this problem?
I checked the microfilm, and I see that it shows 2 different
pushrods, but the replacment early pushrod asks to use the late boot,
so it's a different version meant to fit the late boot with the
smaller hole. Sounds like a different length might be the key.
One of them could be, but the other came off the car. The real difference
is the length of the stud, as it's at least 3/4" longer. The piece that
attaches to the brake pedal is the same (right down to the #17 I have on
all 3,
including the late one). Like I said before, the pushrod butted end to end
(unthreaded) is 150 mm long, so it's not long enough to do the job.
> 3) It pays to make sure you have everything you need before digging
> in (a couple of spare parts will save the day too IF something goes
> wrong (like a stripped out T fitting at the rear- my fault)),
My basement is testimony to my dedication to spare parts, but my wife
doesn't share my enthusiasm for this collection. Nevertheless, it's
always nice to be able to say, "No problem, I've got one of those."
;-)
My backyard was like that too, but mostly sheetmetal, as I've used most of
it up. My mechanical parts "stock" is diminishing too, as I've literally
built 2 cars in the last 3 years. :O
> The wide 5 kit came with a new boot, so I used it. It was real nice and
> soft. Don't know how long it'll survive (it's Chinese), but it's done. I
did
> put the weep hole on the bottom at installation. Thanks for asking.
It came with an MC boot? That seems odd, but sure turned out well for
you. I'm short of the late boots, so I as about to check the dealer
price on them. Anyone know of a good place to buy good ones?
Yes, I was surprised too, but then it was a pretty complete kit. : )
Thanks for all the help you've given me.
Bob 65 Notch S with sunroof and IRS (Krusty)
71 Notch (Krunchy)
64 T-34 Ghia (Wolfie)
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