[T3] ? Mystery of the Clacking Valves ?

[Max Welton]

I made my own adjustable pushrod in order to find the correct length pushrods for my 1776. Then I got some Smith Brothers aluminum pushrods and had then cut locally to the final length of my adjustable.

http://www.maxwelton2k.net/ghia/MVC-426F.JPG

Max Welton

http://www.maxwelton2k.net/

--- On Wed, 5/11/11, Keith Park <topnotch at nycap.rr.com> wrote:

From: Keith Park <topnotch at nycap.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [T3] ? Mystery of the Clacking Valves ?
To: type3 at vwtype3.org
Date: Wednesday, May 11, 2011, 7:22 PM

Well, as far as I know there are no adjustable aluminum pushrods, so It may
be that the builder never did the geometry in the first place, that's not
good.  IF the geometry is off, you will not get the benefit of full valve
lift and side forces on the guides will wear them out prematurely.

Valve geometry is the most difficult part of a performance build, but the
most necessary.  You may want to look thru the info Berg has on this or Jake
Raby, he did a nice writeup and although its T4 the mechanics are the same.

Keith


Top Notch Restorations
topnotch at nycap.rr.com 
http://www.a383ina68.addr.com/radiorest/main.htm
71 Squareback "Hothe"
65 Notchback "El Baja Rojo"
65 Squareback "Eggcrate"
87 golf "Winterat"
93 RX7 "Redstur"


-----Original Message-----
From: type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org
[mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org] On Behalf Of David
Yaghoubian
Sent: Wednesday, May 11, 2011 9:14 PM
To: type3 at vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] ? Mystery of the Clacking Valves ?

At 05:34 PM 5/11/2011, Keith wrote:
>with a 1776 you most certainly have a non-stock cam in it, so you 
>would also have dual valve springs that require
>steel pushrods, if the originals were aluminum that would explain the bend.

I only have the one from #3 (the bent one) on-hand, but if I'm not 
mistaken it feels/looks like anodized aluminum rather than steel. D'oh! :-|

>Secondly, when the installed the new pushrods did they cut them to the
exact
>same length as the ones that were in it?  If not that could wreak havoc
with
>the valve train geometry and cause quick wear to the guides and seats in an
>extreme case.  With a 1776, you wont be running stock geometry or stock
>length pushrods.

Thanks much for this tip/alert Keith (which completely freaks me out, 
btw ;)  I'll inquire first thing in the morning to see if they still 
have the other seven original pushrods to compare. If not, at least I 
have the bowed one, which could probably be straightened out well 
enough to tell if the new rods are a different length.

Dave



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