[T3] '72 Type 3 Progress

Wed Jan 18 20:05:23 PST 2012

Sounds like a lot of good rehabilitation going on over there.  That's pretty great that you got the clock going, it's good to know a trick if I come across a later one with the coils and transistors.

Speaking of the speedo your working on, I pulled mine (from a '71 sb) to check out why the odometer was working intermittently and discovered the shaft (possibly 'input'?) connecting the 'main' gears at the bottom to the odometer digits had a small brass gear that is badly worn.  The whole shaft has a spiral gear on the end linked to the digits and the aforementioned standard-looking brass gear linked to where the cable connects up.  The teeth on the brass gear have worn into fine little points so much that the teeth of the other gear slip right off, causing a few miles to log for every many miles driven.  Does anyone know if these shafts are the same on regular (no trip digits) and 'trip' odometers?  I imagine the extra distance required for the 'trip' section makes them different but I've never seen the insides of any others.

I'm thinking if they're the same I'll try to pick up a used parts gauge and steal the shaft.  Otherwise, I'll have to see if my machinist friend could fabricate me the worn gear.  There is a place near me that rebuilds VDO gauges but I imagine they'd want to do all the work and charge me an arm and a leg for it all...

Good luck with that rusty distributor, sounds like a big mess.

-Jeremy

> From: dlstiefel at dekalbk12.org
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2012 08:08:54 -0600
> Subject: Re: [T3] '72 Type 3 Progress
> 
> Well there is just no telling what you will find with these parts. All of
> them came out of that parts car I got about a year and half ago and as I
> have said in the past. The car had not been driven since 1980 with around
> 77K miles on as Jim can confirm after going through the speedo.  I guess the
> reason the distributor is so rusty is I think it sat most (if not all) of
> those 30 years with no Dis. Cap on it and with our humidity down here it got
> it good. Really surprised you got the clock going was think I was going to
> have do something different on that.    
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org
> [mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org] On Behalf Of Jim Adney
> Sent: Monday, January 16, 2012 9:34 PM
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Subject: [T3] '72 Type 3 Progress
> 
> I was going to send this to Dennis, but I thought it might be of more 
> general interest. Dennis, our resident shop instructor, sent me 4 
> parts from his '72 fasty that his students are bringing back to life. 
> He sent the FI fuel pump. the distributor, the speedo, and the clock.
> 
> The fuel pump parts are all ready for me to put back together, that 
> was straightforward.
> 
> The speedo was very rusty on the outside, but the odometer problem 
> seemed straightforward. When I started to open it, it became clear 
> that I wasn't the first one in there. The odometer input shaft was 
> out of place, which was odd, but I had to remove it anyway. It all 
> went back together nicely, but then I discovered that the speedo 
> input shaft was VERY hard to turn. This turned out to be another 
> common problem that took a few extra minutes to fix. Now everything 
> seems to work nicely, although the odo numerals and the speedo 
> pointer look like they've suffered and discolored, possibly from too 
> much sun. Regardless, it's gonna work just fine.
> 
> That brought me to the clock. This is a late clock, the kind with the 
> little coil and the transistors. I've almost never managed to bring 
> one of them back to life, and this didn't seem any different. I 
> powered it up and it showed some signs of life, but really wouldn't 
> run. Then I checked out one of Dave's suggestions: see if the coil 
> windings showed continuity. There are 2 windings; it's a bifilar 
> wound coil, so both should have the same resistance. One showed about 
> 800 Ohms, but the other was open. Bummer. 
> 
> There's no way to get to the leads on these; I'd have to bust it 
> apart to get to those leads, but the solder connections are on the 
> side I can get to. So I tried warming up the solder. Wow, now I've 
> got two 800 Ohm windings!
> 
> Power it up again and the signs of life are a bit stronger. So I 
> followed another of Dave's suggestions: Flush the works out with WD-
> 40. After that, and a bit of cleanup, it's been running for the last 
> 2 hours!
> 
> I don't care for the WD-40 as a permanent solution, so I think I'll 
> let it go like this for another day, then flush it out with alcohol 
> and lube the pivots with clock oil. Hopefully, that will be a more 
> permanent solution.
> 
> If this actually works, this may be the very first late style clock 
> that I've managed to bring back to life.
> 
> That just leaves the distributor. The very special '72 only 
> distributor. That's a rusty mess and I don't know what I can do with 
> it, but at least I managed to get it all apart, so there's some hope. 
> The big unknown is the very expensive '72 only vacuum advance can. 
> The vacuum retard on those is almost always broken.
> 
> We'll see....
> 
> 
> the input shaft was very tight. That turned out
> -- 
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
> 
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