[T3] running rich and mystery material

[Mike Fisher]

Mine has cotton rag padding on the deck & a fitted black rubber mat from
ISP West, similar to the original rubber mat.

On Fri, Nov 9, 2012 at 5:28 AM, Dennis Stiefel <dlstiefel at dekalbk12.org>wrote:

>
>
> Hey Dennis,
>
> I pulled the insulation 'board' out of the back of my Squareback to do some
> rust repair and have been looking for a good replacement for it, too.
> Currently, I'm using that double sided silver 'foil' bubble wrap style
> insulation.  It was super easy to cut to a prefect fit and the thickness is
> fairly close to the original insulation (pretty cheap, too).  However, I
> think it's less than ideal for a long term solution for a few reasons.
>
> I've been looking into something more like a thicker, stiff rubber or
> flexible plastic with a foil backing.Possibly like this stuff:
> http://www.summitracing.com/search?keyword=THE-14610&dds=1
> or maybe something along these lines:
> http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-879012/media/images
>
> The stuff in the first link comes 36X24" and if I remember right, the rear
> area is 36" wide and 24" should more than cover the depth on your trunk.  I
> feel like something that can't hold water, is thin enough to fit under the
> metal lip at the rear of the trunk, and provides decent sound and heat
> suppression would be best.  I'm not super keen on the adhesive backing but
> it would keep it from shifting around and could help seal out water, if
> pressed down tightly enough.
>
> On the fuel injection problem:  It sounds like there's maybe a misfire,
> too.
> At least it's running really rough, I'd probably check the plugs to see if
> they're fouling yet.  Also, I had an issue with rough running and cutting
> out and it turned out to be in my wiring harness, in particular the
> injector
> plugs.  I'm not sure what all you've done in regards to the harness but it
> might be a good place to start, cleaning and tightening all the contacts
> and
> in the sensor & injector plugs.  I wound up building an entirely new
> harness
> and adding extra direct ground wires for the relays and engine block and it
> runs pretty nicely now (used to lose power, stumble and run very rich).
> I've also seen the system go super rich when either the MPS was
> disconnected
> from the harness (loose or dirty plug) or vacuum line (hose off or leaking
> badly) and running it with the incorrect MPS for the ECU your using.  I've
> used this page from Russ Wolfe's old site to figure out what part # combos
> are ne  cessary.
>
> As you probably already know, sometimes going over the total basics again
> is
> a good place to start (ignition system, grounds, harness connections).
> There's a ton you can dig into with the D-Jet system, so sometimes it's
> best
> to just make sure the simple stuff is all correct.
>
> My $.02,
> JeremySF, CA'71 Squareback, MT, FI
>
>
> I used material similar to that when we were putting in the headliner and
> carpet.  I just wish it was a different color besides silver but it may be
> an option.  I doubt it's a connection because it only dose this when it's
> cold.  You can watch the video I posted before this one and see how it runs
> at operation temperature.  I'm very pleased how well it runs when it is
> warmed up.  But it won't hurt to check all that.  It wouldn't be the first
> time I was wrong on something.  Everything in the ignition is new except
> the
> coil. The coil I have in it is temporary.  When the car was in basket case
> mode one of the many things it was missing was a coil.  I had heard a lot
> of
> bad stuff about a Bosch blue coil so I'm hunting for an original black one.
> In the meantime it has a coil off a 69 Ford 302 engine it was just
> something
> I had laying around.  I wouldn't think that would cause this but like I
> said
> wouldn't be the first time I'm wrong.
>
> Dennis
>
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-- 
Eugene, Oregon

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