[T3] oo oo that smell

[Jim Adney]

On 4 Aug 2013 at 20:34, Chris Sheridan wrote:

> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B-9QLEx0LIuOTmJ5emhYNHZHbk0&usp=sharing

Okay, that worked. Good photos.

> I did the rope trick to crack the fan nut. I'm sure that isn't fun on
> the side of the highway. I pulled the fan off with a harmonic balancer
> puller and 2 m8 1.25 bolts as suggested. As it came off, 2 6mm machine
> screws fell out from behind the fan. they both had rounded heads and
> flattened threads. 

Those 2 screws were rubbing against the rear face of the fan, so 
you'll need to inspect the fan to see if it's okay. If the metal is 
worn thru more than half way, you'll want to find a better fan.

> I bought new bolts but only the left crank 6mm can hold any torque, the
> right side cannot torque past 6 ft pds and the upper one that taps into
> the oil breather pedestal is stripped. the other one on the oil
> breather pedestal had no bolt. I bought a heli-coil kit - question; do
> you hand tighten the tap with a t-wrench or do you use a drill? 

Run the HeliCoil tap in by hand. You'll want to set the insert below 
the surface of the case, so that it gets into good sound material. 
Unless you really know what you're doing, don't drill the hole 
deeper. If you drill too far the one on the left will break thru to 
the outside (no harm) but the one on the right will break into the 
inside of the case (oil leak.) I measured a case here and found the 
holes to be ~17.5 mm deep. That's plenty deep enough for a standard 
Helicoil.

BTW, Helicoil inserts are made in lengths which are multiples of the 
bolt diameter. 1.5x is the default. You can also get locking inserts 
which have a deformed thread in the middle. The 17 mm depth would be 
enough to install 2x inserts. The longer inserts have 2 sets of 
deformed threads. I need to get some of those.

There are 3 tapped holes in the breather stand. The 2 lower ones are 
M6 x 1, the same as the ones in the case. The upper one is M8 x 1.25 
and is the most important one. It should already have a Helicoil 
insert in it, so I doubt if that one is damaged. If it is, get a 
better stand, or get the insert replaced.

Get longer screws to replace all 4 M6s. They need to be long enough 
to get all the way thru the threads, Helicoiled or not. If the screws 
you can buy are too long, shorten them as necessary, or add washers 
under the screw heads.

> Other question; do I absolutely need the flaps or can I remove them
> with no major effect on anything? I'm in california and I have
> aftermarket muffler with j-pipes and all my heat has been ripped out
> anyway. 

Yes, you absolutely, positively want the flaps and thermostat if you 
have any intention of this engine having a reasonably long life. This 
system is what gets the engine to warm up its designed operating 
temperature quickly. You don't want to spend a lot of time in warmup, 
because that's when most of the wear occurs. VWs sold to Africa still 
came with the flaps and thermostats.  

> Also, while this fan housing is out, are there any tricks to removing
> the generator strap studs from the fan housing? I want to put a longer
> one in on the right side to try the Alternator conversion, but it's not
> responding to the double-nut/wd-40 method. 

I've never had much luck getting rusted steel studs out of aluminum. 
Everything tends to corrode together in a way that just doesn't seem 
to respond to any of the standard techniques for getting rusted steel 
parts apart. I think you're likely to break the stud before it will 
come out.

Personally, I think the alternator conversion, although tempting, 
really isn't worth it. It may seem cool to be able to say you've done 
it, but the generator system does everything the car needs. In your 
case, I'd say you have enough problems without inviting others.

There were two versions of the E brain. They were used in '72 & '73. 
Sounds like you've got the right system for your year.

-- 
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Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
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