[T3] Leak under front driver side

[Robert Rogers]

If the front brakes are adjusted correctly by turning the star adjusters, then a common reason for the brake pads to be rubbing the drums is cause by a constriction in the rubber brake hose attached to the brake cylinder.  What happens is the rubber line deteriorates internally and when the brakes are applied, pressure remains in the hose and the pads can not retract.  Brake hoses are relatively inexpensive and replacing them is rather simple.  After replacing the hoses, the brake pads should be adjusted and the brake lines bled to remove any trapped air.  If you need help in this procedure, just let us know and we can provide step-by-step instructions.  To specifically answer your question, when the wheel is spun, you should have very little if any drag.  Sometimes you may hear a slight “ticking” noise and that is common.  


-----Original Message-----
>From: Jacob Adam Schroeder <jacob.schroeder at gmail.com>
>Sent: Mar 17, 2013 11:23 AM
>To: type3 at vwtype3.org
>Subject: Re: [T3] Leak under front driver side
>
>I had the car up on jacks this morning to pump in some grease in the front
>end.  I pumped grease into the one grease nipple on each end until I saw
>grease coming out the seal on the other side.  While the front end was
>jacked up, I tried to spin the front wheel.
>
>On the driver's side, the wheel spun freely, but I could hear it dragging
>on the brake pads all the way around.  On the passenger's side, the wheel
>would not spin freely and it was certainly dragging on the pads, and facing
>resistance, all the way around.
>
>If the brakes were working perfectly, then I assume the front wheels should
>freely spin (with no drag on the pads), is that correct?
>
>Jacob
>
>
>
>On Sat, Mar 16, 2013 at 12:52 PM, Jacob Adam Schroeder <
>jacob.schroeder at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> The fluid washes off with water only, no soap.  So it looks like we're
>> dealing with brake fluid ... bummer.
>>
>> This likely means that fluid is leaking out of the master cylinder.  What
>> is next?
>>
>> As far as the brake check, I will perform the first test you suggested,
>> Jim, and see if I can detect movement in each of the 4 pads.  I may wait on
>> the other test (15 minute drive, etc.) until after I fix the leaking master
>> cylinder.  I know that when I drove the car, I did not notice any pulling
>> and after driving home from work (~ 30 minutes) when I did so a few weeks
>> back, I checked and did not notice any excessive heat coming from the
>> rotors or drums.
>>
>> Jacob
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Mar 16, 2013 at 9:54 AM, Jim Adney <jadney at vwtype3.org> wrote:
>>
>>> On 16 Mar 2013 at 8:55, Jacob Adam Schroeder wrote:
>>>
>>> > I'm starting to think that the leak is brake fluid now, especially in
>>> view
>>> > of the corrosiveness of brake fluid.  The areas of the front end that
>>> are
>>> > "wet" are that bright orange/fresh rust color.  I do not have enough of
>>> a
>>> > leak on the floor right now (haven't driven it in about a week) to
>>> perform
>>> > the oil/water test under the sink to see if it is water soluble.
>>>
>>> Can you just wet your finger on the rubber part and see if the wet
>>> part rinses off without soap?
>>>
>>> > So if I want to verify my brakes are up to speed, aside from flushing
>>> out
>>> > the old fluid, what next?  Should I remove the cylinders and have them
>>> > rebuilt?
>>>
>>> There are a couple simple tests you can do.
>>>
>>> Have a friend push hard on the pedal while you see if you can feel
>>> the pad move in the back of each caliper. You can do this while lying
>>> on the floor and reaching in from the back side of the wheel. Lay
>>> your finger on the caliper and the rear of the pad. You are hoping to
>>> feel the pad move in when the pedal is pressed and move back slightly
>>> when the pedal is released. Check all 4 pads.
>>>
>>> If you find one or more pads that don't pull back, send me the
>>> calipers to be rebuilt.
>>>
>>> If that works, take it for a 15 minute highway drive, then stop at
>>> the top of a hill, letting the car slow down without using the brakes
>>> any more than absolutely necessary. Get out and feel each rotor and
>>> drum. Be careful, because something may be VERY hot. If there's
>>> anything that's hot enough that you don't want to leave your finger
>>> there, then there's a problem. In that case, let us know which wheels
>>> are hot and we can go from there.
>>>
>>> In general, I think calipers should be rebuilt in pairs, just so both
>>> get off to the same fresh start. Rear wheel cylinders are best left
>>> on the car and rebuilt there. I can also rebuild your master cyl if
>>> there's a problem with it.
>>>
>>> Once you get everything in good shape, I recommend changing to DoT-5
>>> Silicone Brake Fluid. That will keep everything in good shape MUCH
>>> longer than standard DoT 3 or 4.
>>>
>>> --
>>> *******************************
>>> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
>>> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
>>> *******************************
>>>
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>>>
>>
>>
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