[T3] Advice for removing rusted stock exhaust

[Dave Hall]

With the 4 nuts off the rear of the ehads, there shouldn't be anything
stopping that joint opening apart from the lower pipes from the front heat
exchangers.  These joints are often rusted up very firmly.  
Heat and rust-ease may allow you to get the lower joints apart, but I often
have to destroy the lower pipes from the muffler to get themn separated, so
it's not something to do with a good muffler.  There's an inch or more of
overlap on the joints and plnty of rust forms between them.  The crusty
white stuff is probably exhaust sealant - I doubt it's doing more than
making the job a bit harder.

Dave
UK VW Type 3&4 Club
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-----Original Message-----
From: type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org
[mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org] On Behalf Of Jacob Adam
Schroeder
Sent: 17 January 2014 06:23
To: type3 at vwtype3.org
Subject: [T3] Advice for removing rusted stock exhaust

I recently found a completely stock 1972 T3 engine from a salvage yard.  I
have the thing sitting on my garage floor and I cannot seem to get the
exhaust off.  I'm looking for any suggestions or advice anybody can give to
prevent me from doing something I'll later regret.

It is a stock set up (with rear heat exchangers in great shape).  I have
removed the 4 nuts (2 on each side) from the rear of the cylinder heads that
hold on the rear heat exchangers.  I have also loosened all the clamps on
the rear heat exchangers.  I have removed those two bracket things (1 on
each side) which connect the exhaust to the front heat exchangers (some
crusty white stuff remains in that junction).  The big threaded junction
between the rear heat exchangers and the exhaust are rusted shut, but I'm
hoping I can remove the exhaust / rear heat exchangers as 1 unit and deal
with the rusted junction later.

It seems as though the exhaust should now be free from the engine, but I can
put enough force on the exhaust to practically lift the engine and I see no
movement at where the rear heat exchangers connect to the rear of the
cylinder heads.

Is there something I'm missing?  Could that crusty white stuff between the
exhaust and front heat exchangers really be that strong?  Any advice on
making progress from here?  Thanks!

Jacob
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