[T3] Advice for removing rusted stock exhaust

[Jim Adney]

On 16 Jan 2014 at 22:23, Jacob Adam Schroeder wrote:

> It is a stock set up (with rear heat exchangers in great shape).  I have
> removed the 4 nuts (2 on each side) from the rear of the cylinder heads
> that hold on the rear heat exchangers.  I have also loosened all the clamps
> on the rear heat exchangers.  I have removed those two bracket things (1 on
> each side) which connect the exhaust to the front heat exchangers (some
> crusty white stuff remains in that junction).  The big threaded junction
> between the rear heat exchangers and the exhaust are rusted shut, but I'm
> hoping I can remove the exhaust / rear heat exchangers as 1 unit and deal
> with the rusted junction later.

You're correct in not trying to free the threaded connections between 
the upper HEs and the muffler. Those can usually only be undone by 
destroying the muffler, so plan to use the whole assembly until the 
muffler is shot.

You need to completely remove the large air duct clamps between the 
upper and lower heat exchangers, as well as the air ducts that 
connect the fan housing to the upper heat exchangers. Try to save the 
small rubber bellows at the fan housing outlets, because those are 
impossible to find in good condition.

At that point, if the 4 exhaust port bolts and washers are all 
removed you should at least be able to see that upper joint move a 
bit.

If the connections between the muffler and the lower HEs is still 
stuck, I'd try to cut a wood block to fit the curve of the muffler so 
you can hit it with a hammer without damaging the muffler. If it's 
still tight, try heating the muffler tubes where it overlaps the 
lower HE. If you can get it dull red at least part way around, that 
should expand it enough to free it from the HE.  

-- 
*******************************
Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
*******************************