[T3] It's not just the horn...

[Dave Hall]

If the ignition was very intermittent, that might well crackle on the radio.
If it went off and on and off, that could ignite unburnt gases that got into
the exhaust when the ignition was momentarily off - hence a bang or two as
it got intermittent.

You say the idiot lights come on Ok, so the ignition must still be working.
That makes it sound like the starter part of the ignition switch could be
the problem, or the wiring to/from that.  

Anyway, get a look at the starter motor, the gear and whether it slides OK.


Dave
UK VW Type 3&4 Club
===================

-----Original Message-----
From: type3-vwtype3.org [mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org]
On Behalf Of J. Jonik
Sent: 22 October 2014 18:17
To: Type 3
Subject: Re: [T3] It's not just the horn...

Subject: Re: [T3] It's Not Just The Horn...
Message-ID: <0A9E4B496E3A422FB5EEDE1C2AC4A993 at DavidPC>
Content-Type: text/plain;    charset="iso-8859-1"

You've got a problem trying to work out what problem to address first! 

Was the 'seized' wheel front or rear?  The front wheel not rotating even
with brake pads not touching the disc:  That's got to be the bearings! 
(snip).........
>>>>>>   Thanks for good advice to use, maybe, some day.  But, it turns 
>>>>>>out that the right rear tire was simply over-adjusted.  My nice 
>>>>>>clean, easy-to-turn adjustment wheels SEEMED to be adjusted right 
>>>>>>(after having everything off) but one or both was too tight.When I 
>>>>>>figured that out, wheel turned normally.  Whew.  It wasn't 
>>>>>>bearings or seized engine or anything. I think that brakes sort of 
>>>>>>self adjusted by driving the car a little.  (Yes, the little 
>>>>>>v-shaped spring that holds adjustment wheel in place is there.)

But, car still won't start.  I'm still trying to find out if crossing hot
wire at solenoid with the smaller Ignition Switch connection should produce
a loud rattling noise, or something else.I'll take the starter to Pep Boys
or the like for a free starter check.  And I'll bring one of my used spares
to make sure that's ok.Question is:  Should I just put a good one in, try to
start the car, and hope for the best?  OR should I FIRST somehow make sure
the Ignition Switch is ok or not?    That is...Will a bad ignition switch
harm the solenoid?

Other question:   Would a bad solenoid and/or Ign. Switch cause a running
car to suddenly go dead, with two little backfires?
 And what did the radio static at that time mean?   Don't know if that's a
clue to anything, or a red herring.
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