[T3] Trouble home from Bugorama
Jim Adney
jadney at vwtype3.org
Wed Nov 4 07:49:57 PST 2015
On 4 Nov 2015 at 7:03, Jacob Adam Schroeder wrote:
> I had zero compression in cylinder 2 because the exhaust valve broke. If
> you are interested in seeing the carnage, here it is:
> https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/pXLI0Qm-N97Lyzj7FkY5qNMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink
It's not broken, it's "burned." It started to leak at some point, and
the hot exhaust gas slowly eroded away the metal of the valve. That
said, this is the worst burned exhaust valve I've ever seen. It's
usually just a small notch. Once you get a notch, there's no longer
enough compression to get hot exhaust, so the erosion stops. At least
that's how I always envisioned it.
Here's what I think you should do:
Remove both heads and take them to a shop you trust to do good VW
work. You can send the heads to RIIMCO if you don't have any local
options. Ask them to replace any valve guides that are worn past spec
and replace ALL 4 exhaust valves. Touch up the margins of the intake
valves and do all 8 seats (3 angle!!! Look at the manual for
details.) Check all the valve springs for proper tension and replace
any that don't meet spec. Be careful about replacement valve springs,
because the last ones I tried to buy didn't even come up to the min.
spec. Good spring force is necessary to make sure the valve is
pressed solidly against the seat; this allows the seat to cool the
valve margin, which is especially important for exhaust valves.
Once this is done, you can put everything back together, or you can
consider doing one more thing: Remove the #2 P/C and check the bore
for excess wear. The concern here would be that if #2 was not firing
for a long time, while gas was still coming in, the cylinder wall and
the rings might have gotten extremely worn.
Are these the OG 85.5 mm P/Cs? If so, someone may have a used
replacement that would be better than yours.
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Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
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