[T3] Steering box replacement questions
Bobsnotch at aol.com
Bobsnotch at aol.com
Thu Apr 14 17:35:40 PDT 2016
In a message dated 4/14/2016 7:53:43 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
d.nohejl at gmail.com writes:
So we’ll be replacing our steering box this weekend. Our 3 year old TRW
box is impervious to both adjustments and has in excess of 1.5” of play in
both directions. It seems like replacement could be a really straightforward
job or one with a lot of frustrations and little things to go wrong. I have
a couple of questions ahead of the job and any input would be very
welcome. Here goes:
1—Is it absolutely necessary to remove the gas tank?
2—What’s the best way to deal with the drop arm? Is it necessary to get a
special tool like this?
http://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-25262-Pitman-Arm-Puller/dp/B000CMHKR2?ie=UTF8
&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_3&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
<http://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-25262-Pitman-Arm-Puller/dp/B000CMHKR2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redi
rect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_3&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER>
Or could I maybe use my tie rod end removal tool?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/oes-27175?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKEAjw_7y4BR
Dykp3Hjqyt_y0SJACome3TKNWMympDRXkwYqDpDJpBjNcHF6BFrndRe2yVZe8NtxoCiwnw_wcB
<http://www.summitracing.com/parts/oes-27175?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKEAjw_7y4B
RDykp3Hjqyt_y0SJACome3TKNWMympDRXkwYqDpDJpBjNcHF6BFrndRe2yVZe8NtxoCiwnw_wcB>
3—Should we remove the tie rod ends from the drop arm before removing the
arm or should we keep them in place throughout the job?
4—What lubricant is most recommended for inside the box?
5—I keep reading that we’re supposed to center the box by lining up the
gap in the collar on the input shaft with a mark on the body of the box. I
just want to be sure I have the right mark on the box. Does this look okay?
http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1492065.jpg
<http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1492065.jpg>
6—Any common difficulties or stumbling blocks I should be aware of?
#1, No, that job can be done in the car. It's a little tight for space, but
can be done without removing the tank. You'll want to disconnect the
steering Column first, then drop the steering arm, then remove the 2 bolts
holding the box onto the beam.
#2. I think I used a hammer to tap it free, but I might have used a pickel
fork on it. It's been about 17 years now since I last did that job.
#3. I'm pretty sure you can leave them on, I only say that, as you're
mainly woring on disconnecting the other end of the drop arm.
#4. You'll have to ask someone else, this is because some steering boxes
got oil, and some got grease, and there's no real way of knowing just by
looking at it.
#5. I'd spin the steering input shaft all the way to 1 side, then, count
the number of turns to go to opposite lock. Then split that number in half.
That should get you very close to center. I only say that, as the mark
you're looking for might not be there.
#6. Space will be tight, and you might have to take more stuff off to get
some room to maneuver, but it's kind of part of the job. Don't attach
anything tight, until you're sure it doesn't need to come off again. And pay
attention to the steering box clamp when you remove it from the car. I only say
that, as it has a number (31 or 34) and this determines which angle the
steering box will sit on the beam. I should also mention to pay attention to
the steering coupling wire connection, as it's part of the ground system
for the horn, and needs to be attached a certain way. Also inspect the rubber
part for cracks, and replace if needed.
Also, plan to spend most of the day on it. The weather headed your way
might allow for some outdoor work for a change. ;-)
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
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