[T3] Brake Bleeding Update

[J. Jonik]

71  Squareback:
 
Brake pedal still can't be adjusted correctly, and still needs to be pumped a couple of times to work OK.

The situation:  

- Made sure brake pads, front and rear, were good thickness.
- Freed up and greased one of the rear adjustment gear things. 

- No leaks anywhere.
- Reservoir filled to proper level. Cap loosened, and hand-brake off, when bleeding.
- Top valve in a front double-valve caliper is frozen in place.
- Wheels, with car raised, all cannot be turned when brake pedal is pushed down with a stick pushing against the driver's seat.


Still, only one of the front valves, when opened, produces a good squirt and lets pedal go to the floor during bleeding.  The other front one (with the frozen 2nd valve) does a little squirt.  None produce apparent air...just a dribbling flow of fluid.  


(Doesn't that fluid, and the fact that brakes hold the wheels solidly, show that hoses aren't blocked?)

I'd hate to just try a new Master Cylinder, just in case that's the problem.  Found new master cylinders on-line for about $35.  Worth a try?

Long shot:  What about re-adjusting...lengthening...the push-rod from pedal to cylinder?  How bad must car rust be to make that go out of adjustment?