[T3] Brake Bleeding
J. Jonik
j_jonik at yahoo.com
Mon Apr 25 17:02:56 PDT 2016
Never did all that bleeding work using engine on and back and forth...but will do ASAP.
One thing...no...the brake pedal doesn't go to the floor on first pupsh or when needing to stop quickly. It goes about half way, or about a third...but still needs those three or so little pumps to get it up to comfortable. Even as is, it will stop the car on a one-push quick panic braking (a rare situation).
What was weird was when my friend helped me bleed last week, she couldn't get pedal to go to the floor even when I had any of the 3, out of the four, valves open. Front left went to the floor when valve was opened, as it should. Will see what happens tomorrow.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
1. Re: BrakeBleeding (Jim Adney)
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Message: 1
Date: Sat, 23 Apr 2016 09:12:33 -0500
From: "Jim Adney" <jadney at VWType3.org>
To: type3 at vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] BrakeBleeding
Message-ID: <571B82D1.11888.4445B8 at jadney.VWType3.org>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
John,
Here's what I think I understand about your situation:
You've bled all 4 wheels and now nothing but brake fluid comes out.
The first time you press the brake pedal, it goes to the floor.
If you press the brake pedal several times, you get a nice, high,
firm pedal.
You don't have any leaks.
If all these are correct, there's only one explanation: Your rear
brakes are out of adjustment. Here's how to adjust them:
Jack up the rear wheels on jackstands and block the front wheels.
Release the parking brake. Check the ends of the parking brake
cables, where they exit at the base of the parking brake lever.
Typically, they stick out of the locknuts about 1 cm. If yours stick
out a lot farther than that, spin the nuts out until they do. The
parking brake should only be adjusted AFTER adjusting the shoes.
Back under the car, tighten an adjuster while spinning the tire
slowly with your other hand. When the tire starts to get hard to
spin, start turning it back and forth. Keep tightening while turning
back and forth, until you can just barely turn the wheel. Then back
off a couple teeth on that adjuster.
Repeat for each of the other 3 adjusters.
Get in the car and start the engine. Run the wheels forward and
depress the brake pedal until you feel the brakes slow down the
engine a bit, then put it in reverse and apply the brakes again just
enough to slow down the engine. Do this several times in each
direction. This "centers" the shoes in the adjuster and wheel
cylinder slots.
Put it in neutral and check the brake pedal feel. It should be very
high now. If not, kill the engine and go back and repeat the
adjusting steps above.
Once you have a good pedal, go back to the adjusters and back each
one off just enough that the shoe doesn't drag when you spin the
wheel. You'll need to back both adjusters off maybe 2 teeth at a time
to free up the wheel. This can be fiddly because with 2 shoes
rubbing, you won't be able to tell when one of them is back far
enough, so you'll probably have to go in and out a bit before you get
it right.
--
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Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
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