[T3] Steering box replacement questions

[Bobsnotch at aol.com]

In a message dated 4/14/2016 7:53:43 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
d.nohejl at gmail.com writes:

So we’ll  be replacing our steering box this weekend. Our 3 year old TRW 
box is  impervious to both adjustments and has in excess of 1.5” of play in 
both  directions. It seems like replacement could be a really straightforward 
job or  one with a lot of frustrations and little things to go wrong. I have 
a couple  of questions ahead of the job and any input would be very 
welcome. Here  goes:

1—Is it absolutely necessary to remove the gas tank?  

2—What’s the best way to deal with the drop arm? Is it necessary to  get a 
special tool like this?  

http://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-25262-Pitman-Arm-Puller/dp/B000CMHKR2?ie=UTF8
&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_3&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER  
<http://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-25262-Pitman-Arm-Puller/dp/B000CMHKR2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redi
rect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_3&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER>

Or  could I maybe use my tie rod end removal  tool?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/oes-27175?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKEAjw_7y4BR
Dykp3Hjqyt_y0SJACome3TKNWMympDRXkwYqDpDJpBjNcHF6BFrndRe2yVZe8NtxoCiwnw_wcB  
<http://www.summitracing.com/parts/oes-27175?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKEAjw_7y4B
RDykp3Hjqyt_y0SJACome3TKNWMympDRXkwYqDpDJpBjNcHF6BFrndRe2yVZe8NtxoCiwnw_wcB>

3—Should  we remove the tie rod ends from the drop arm before removing the 
arm or should  we keep them in place throughout the job?

4—What lubricant is most  recommended for inside the box? 

5—I keep reading that we’re supposed  to center the box by lining up the 
gap in the collar on the input shaft with a  mark on the body of the box. I 
just want to be sure I have the right mark on  the box. Does this look  okay?

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1492065.jpg  
<http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1492065.jpg>

6—Any  common difficulties or stumbling blocks I should be aware  of?
 
#1, No, that job can be done in the car. It's a little tight for space, but 
 can be done without removing the tank. You'll want to disconnect the 
steering  Column first, then drop the steering arm, then remove the 2 bolts 
holding the  box onto the beam.
 
#2. I think I used a hammer to tap it free, but I might have used a pickel  
fork on it. It's been about 17 years now since I last did that job.
 
#3. I'm pretty sure you can leave them on, I only say that, as you're  
mainly woring on disconnecting the other end of the drop arm.
 
#4. You'll have to ask someone else, this is because some steering boxes  
got oil, and some got grease, and there's no real way of knowing just by 
looking  at it.
 
#5. I'd spin the steering input shaft all the way to 1 side, then, count  
the number of turns to go to opposite lock. Then split that number in half. 
That  should get you very close to center. I only say that, as the mark 
you're looking  for might not be there.
 
#6. Space will be tight, and you might have to take more stuff off to get  
some room to maneuver, but it's kind of part of the job. Don't attach 
anything  tight, until you're sure it doesn't need to come off again. And pay 
attention to  the steering box clamp when you remove it from the car. I only say 
that, as it  has a number (31 or 34) and this determines which angle the 
steering box will  sit on the beam. I should also mention to pay attention to 
the steering  coupling wire connection, as it's part of the ground system 
for the horn, and  needs to be attached a certain way. Also inspect the rubber 
part for cracks, and  replace if needed.
Also, plan to spend most of the day on it. The weather headed your way  
might allow for some outdoor work for a change. ;-) 


Bob 65 Notch  S with Sunroof
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