[T3] Factory Steering Wheel?

Timothy Jones timothyjones883 at hotmail.com
Mon Feb 29 13:37:41 PST 2016


I don't know if I'm replying correctly but I have refinished my steering wheel; it's a 69 but the process should be the same on the wheel part, if your horn "button" is cracked that may have to be replaced depending on severity. 
I use an epoxy called PC7. amazon has it; just fyi. after dremelling/cleaning out cracks to give better adhesion fill cracks etc. let it set up then file/ sand etc. continue this until its fretty smooth then I fill smaller pits low spots etc with "glazing or spot putty". then sand sand sand. It's not too hard but will take a couple days maybe because you have to make sure the putties dry between coats and sanding. Also you will have to spray the wheel after so its not like a color matching putty, but frankly respraying the wheel gives a nice caot all over and should stand up for years to come. I painted mine brown to match my brown repop dash because I wanted it brown (fake nutria)! 
Anyway, it really isn't too tricky just have to pay attention to detail and have fun with the finger grooves! I can post pics of my finished project if anyone is interested It's not a hard diy project and im sure you wouldn't be driving a 44 y/o car if you weren't scared of getting your hands dirty! Cheers, Tim in Texas

> From: type3-vwtype3.org-request at lists.vwtype3.org
> Subject: type3-vwtype3.org Digest, Vol 65, Issue 29
> To: type3-vwtype3.org at lists.vwtype3.org
> Date: Mon, 29 Feb 2016 11:49:54 -0800
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> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>    1. Re: Temp sensor and MPS problems on new motor (Jessica Chase)
>    2. Re: Temp sensor and MPS problems on new motor (Keith Park)
>    3. Re: Temp sensor and MPS problems on new motor (Jim Adney)
>    4. Factory Steering Wheel? (Daniel K. Du Vall)
>    5. Re: Factory Steering Wheel? (Jim Adney)
>    6. Re: Factory Steering Wheel? (Daniel K. Du Vall)
>    7. Re: Factory Steering Wheel? (Jim Adney)
>    8. Re: Factory Steering Wheel? (William J)
>    9. Re: Factory Steering Wheel? (dlstiefel)
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2016 21:30:32 -0500
> From: Jessica Chase <jesassica at gmail.com>
> To: type3-vwtype3.org at lists.vwtype3.org
> Subject: Re: [T3] Temp sensor and MPS problems on new motor
> Message-ID: <EFAE48BA-E9AC-4753-B7A6-F3B0A0F16BFA at gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Okay, so here?s a lengthy update on all the stuff that?s been going on!
> 
> The belt is a NOS 9.5x1000 Optibelt with only 975 miles on it. It?s v-shaped on the underside, has no teeth, and fits really well. We took off the pulley and it looks completely fine though the piece that slides over the woodruff key comes off quite easily if that means anything. Since Friday evening, we?ve gone out of our way to run the car with the lights on (even in the daytime) and the moaning sound hasn?t come back. What the heck?!?!
> 
> We had to push start the car again today. It took 5 tries to get it started cold. Then, we took a very short drive and after sitting for about 45 mins the starter would?t spin. Wire 18 isn?t frayed and when we turn the key the idiot lights don?t dim or go out. Any use in installing the Bosch hard start relay kit? We have one. Any other moves we should make? 
> 
> The starter is 311 911 023 B. It was hard to read the Bosch part # but it seems to be 0 001 211 012 then the Bosch symbol then 013. We could only see one brush, but from this part # can the correct amount of brushes be inferred? Oh, and here?s a picture of the starter body and another of what the connectors looked like. Altogether quite clean but after these pics I polished them up with 800 grit paper and put some dielectric grease on everything 
> 
> http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1471142.jpg <http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1471142.jpg>
> 
> http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1471141.jpg <http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1471141.jpg>
> 
> When we adjusted the pressure sensor last week, we went CCW to richen it. It seemed that we went too far as the AFR #?s were very rich and we got horrible gas mileage. Normally, we?ll fill up every Monday unless we go on a weekend trip. This time, we filled up on a Monday and had to refill on Friday morning. We used the same station and pump as always. After that, we went a tiny bit leaner (CW) to get an idle AFR of 13. We didn?t do enough driving after that to come to any conclusions. 
> 
> Today we disconnected wire 18, the pressure switch, and the TVS. The idle was a bit strange. It seemed to wander around a lot and the AFR #?s did the same thing. However, everything else was fine. In fact, the motor wasn?t underpowered at all. We hit 40 in 2nd gear with no problems! The AFR?s here were actually BETTER with everything unplugged than with it all plugged in. There was never a number higher than 15 for more than a split second. So what on earth does that tell us??? This is getting kind of maddening!!
> 
> With all of our pressure sensors, we?ve noticed that the AFR leans out under hard acceleration until the pressure switch kicks in. Then there?s uphill acceleration. We could be cruising at 13 but if we have to push it up a hill in 3rd, the AFR will spike into the 16?s. We?ve observed that on 2 different motors with 4 different pressure sensors and 2 different pressure switches! We?d gotten to the point where we just thought it was a system design glitch which may have been corrected in the C, D, and E systems. Now, we don?t know what to think. We didn?t push it uphill with things unplugged today but it seemed ?healthy? when accelerating on flat ground!
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> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2016 23:12:13 -0500
> From: "Keith Park" <topnotch at nycap.rr.com>
> To: <type3 at vwtype3.org>
> Subject: Re: [T3] Temp sensor and MPS problems on new motor
> Message-ID: <E4.80.26622.D15C3D65 at cdptpa-oedge02>
> Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Dont worry about errant AFR readings, your sensor is in the wrong place
> anyway so it will give odd readings once in a while.  WHAT IS the gas
> mileage?  how often you fill up tells us nothing, you want 17-18MPG in
> town this time of year with NYS winter blend gas,  tell us what numbers you
> actually get, it sounds like everything is working rather well (except
> starter).
> 
> What matters in the end is how well it runs, what gas mileage your getting 
> and what power you have (BTW, please dont bring it to 40 in 2nd, thats
> red-lining it) and isnt telling you how much power your getting anyway as
> your not measuring how fast it get there, I can red-line it in 4th with 3
> cylinders.....
> Remember that big hill out of Lake George?  You should be able to hold 70 on
> that with 2 people in the car in 4th.
> 
> Keith
> 
> 
> Today we disconnected wire 18, the pressure switch, and the TVS. The idle
> was a bit strange. It seemed to wander around a lot and the AFR #'s did the
> same thing. However, everything else was fine. In fact, the motor wasn't
> underpowered at all. We hit 40 in 2nd gear with no problems! The AFR's here
> were actually BETTER with everything unplugged than with it all plugged in.
> There was never a number higher than 15 for more than a split second. So
> what on earth does that tell us??? This is getting kind of maddening!!
> 
> With all of our pressure sensors, we've noticed that the AFR leans out under
> hard acceleration until the pressure switch kicks in. Then there's uphill
> acceleration. We could be cruising at 13 but if we have to push it up a hill
> in 3rd, the AFR will spike into the 16's. We've observed that on 2 different
> motors with 4 different pressure sensors and 2 different pressure switches!
> We'd gotten to the point where we just thought it was a system design glitch
> which may have been corrected in the C, D, and E systems. Now, we don't know
> what to think. We didn't push it uphill with things unplugged today but it
> seemed "healthy" when accelerating on flat ground!
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2016 22:34:15 -0600
> From: "Jim Adney" <jadney at VWType3.org>
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Subject: Re: [T3] Temp sensor and MPS problems on new motor
> Message-ID: <56D3CA47.633.134018C at jadney.VWType3.org>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
> 
> On 28 Feb 2016 at 21:30, Jessica Chase wrote:
> 
> > The belt is a NOS 9.5x1000 Optibelt with only 975 miles on it. It?s
> > v-shaped on the underside, has no teeth, and fits really well. We took
> > off the pulley and it looks completely fine though the piece that
> > slides over the woodruff key comes off quite easily if that means
> > anything. Since Friday evening, we?ve gone out of our way to run the
> > car with the lights on (even in the daytime) and the moan?ng sound
> > hasnTMt come back. What the heck?!?! 
> 
> Sounds just fine. What the heck, indeed?
> 
> > We had to push start the car again today. It took 5 tries to get it
> > started cold. Then, we took a very short drive and after sitting for
> > about 45 mins the starter would?t spin. Wire 18 isn?t frayed and when
> > we turn the key the idiot lights don?t dim or go out. Any use in
> > installing the Bosch hard start relay kit? We have one. Any other
> > moves we should make? 
> 
> Next time you have trouble, see if tapping on the side of the starter 
> fixes the problem. If so, the brushes are probably just hung up and 
> need to be freed. They could also be just about worn out. I wouldn't 
> bother with the hard start relay just yet. I've never had to install 
> one.
> 
> > The starter is 311 911 023 B. It was hard to read the Bosch part # but
> > it seems to be 0 001 211 012 then the Bosch symbol then 013. We could
> > only see one brush, but from this part # can the correct amount of
> > brushes be inferred? Oh, and here?s a picture of the starter body and
> > another of what the connectors looked like. Altogether quite clean but
> > after these pics I polished them up with 800 grit paper and put some
> > dielectric grease on everything 
> 
> That's probably the original starter, installed in 1969. So it may 
> indicate that your brushes need attention. This is a 2 brush starter 
> with copper field coils.
> 
> > http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1471142.jpg
> > <http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1471142.jpg> 
> > 
> > http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1471141.jpg
> > <http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1471141.jpg> 
> > 
> > When we adjusted the pressure sensor last week, we went CCW to richen
> > it. It seemed that we went too far as the AFR #?s were very rich and
> > we got horrible gas mileage. Normally, we?ll fill up every Monday
> > unless we go on a weekend trip.
> 
> I recommend keeping a log of odometer mileage and gallons at each 
> fillup. You can do this in the form of a sort of spread sheet, where 
> you have columns for odometer miles, miles since last fillup, gallons 
> purchased, and miles per gallon. Keep this in your glove box and 
> write down odo miles and gallons each time you fill up. You can go 
> back later and calculate miles since last fillup and miles/gal. That 
> will give you real numbers to work with.
> 
> Gallons per week and days per tank have really ambiguous meanings.
> 
> How far CCW did you tweak the pressure sensor?
> 
> > Today we disconnected wire 18, the pressure switch, and the TVS. The
> > idle was a bit strange. It seemed to wander around a lot and the AFR
> > #?s did the same thing. However, everything else was fine. In fact,
> > the motor wasn?t underpowered at all. We hit 40 in 2nd gear with no
> > problems! The AFR?s here were actually BETTER with everything
> > unplugged than with it all plugged in. There was never a number higher
> > than 15 for more than a split second. So what on earth does that?tell
> > us??? This is getting kind of maddening!! 
> 
> So maybe we're narrowing in on something. Drive like this a bit more 
> to make sure your problems don't reoccur, then plug one component in 
> at a time, testing each one. Find the one that makes things 
> misbehave.
> 
> Did you ground wire 18? When correctly connected, it will be grounded 
> thru the solenoid. Next time you have a chance, measure the voltage 
> on the end of that wire for me, with the engine running and the wire 
> disconnected. If it sits up around 12-14 V, it's richening the 
> mixture while being disconnected. That would confuse this picture.
> 
> > With all of our pressure sensors, we?ve noticed that the AFR leans out
> > under hard acceleration until the pressure switch kicks in. Then
> > there?s uphill acceleration. We could be cruising at 13 but if we have
> > to push it up a hill in 3rd, the AFR will spike into the 16?s. 
> 
> I don't know normal AFR numbers, but this sounds pretty normal. The 
> pressure switch should richen things under WOT. That should be the 
> same for uphill and flat driving. The only difference should be that 
> flat WOT can only be sustained for short times, while a good hill can 
> go on for many minutes.
> 
> If your only complaint is that things get too lean under WOT, then I 
> wonder if your pressure switch doesn't toggle at the right vacuum. Do 
> you have a vacuum gauge that you could connect to your pressure 
> switch, so you could suck on a hose and listen to when the switch 
> clicks? You would need a length of hose, a Tee, and some time. If so, 
> get me some numbers and I'll compare with numbers I get with switches 
> here. I have several spares.  
> 
> -- 
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Mon, 29 Feb 2016 15:15:28 +0000
> From: "Daniel K. Du Vall" <dduvall at 1peter4-10.org>
> To: "type3 at vwtype3.org" <type3 at vwtype3.org>
> Subject: [T3] Factory Steering Wheel?
> Message-ID:
> 	<BN3PR0501MB11061DCCD39BF2EEF8F330C693BA0 at BN3PR0501MB1106.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
> 	
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> I know this is probably an odd question because who would want to keep the factory steering wheel of a 27 Squareback.
> 
> 
> OK, so is there a way to fix cracks/ separations and a small missing chunk to restore this wheel?
> 
> Some how I have grown to like this ugly thing.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Daniel Du Vall
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 5
> Date: Mon, 29 Feb 2016 12:00:22 -0600
> From: "Jim Adney" <jadney at VWType3.org>
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Subject: Re: [T3] Factory Steering Wheel?
> Message-ID: <56D48736.14791.B98D19 at jadney.VWType3.org>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
> 
> On 29 Feb 2016 at 15:15, Daniel K. Du Vall wrote:
> 
> > I know this is probably an odd question because who would want to keep the factory steering wheel of a 27 Squareback.
> 
> '27 Squarebacks are extremely rare, and I wouldn't want you to change 
> a thing on one of those.  ;-)  OTOH, there was a mid-year change in 
> '72, so I have to ask whether you're looking for a 2-spoke or 4-spoke 
> steering wheel.
> 
> I believe there are people who will restore steering wheels. You 
> might find them thru Hemmings Motor News. (Do they still have a print 
> version? If so, check your library.) I have no experience with any of 
> them.
> 
> As an alternative, consider getting yours leather covered.
> 
> -- 
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 6
> Date: Mon, 29 Feb 2016 18:10:32 +0000
> From: "Daniel K. Du Vall" <dduvall at 1peter4-10.org>
> To: "type3 at vwtype3.org" <type3 at vwtype3.org>
> Subject: Re: [T3] Factory Steering Wheel?
> Message-ID:
> 	<BN3PR0501MB11067F075F12FC034676BAA193BA0 at BN3PR0501MB1106.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
> 	
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> Its the 4 spoke black one with the plastic cover that has a Wolfs Berg emblem on it. 
> If its easy respired I would consider it and the leather ideas is an idea i had not thought of. 
> But if all else fails I have seen a few out there that are of the same diameter and might work in place of it. 
> Clearing the turn signals and such is of most importance.
> 
> Thanks,
> Daniel Du Vall
> 
> ________________________________________
> From: type3-vwtype3.org <type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org> on behalf of Jim Adney <jadney at VWType3.org>
> Sent: Monday, February 29, 2016 12:00 PM
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Subject: Re: [T3] Factory Steering Wheel?
> 
> On 29 Feb 2016 at 15:15, Daniel K. Du Vall wrote:
> 
> > I know this is probably an odd question because who would want to keep the factory steering wheel of a 27 Squareback.
> 
> '27 Squarebacks are extremely rare, and I wouldn't want you to change
> a thing on one of those.  ;-)  OTOH, there was a mid-year change in
> '72, so I have to ask whether you're looking for a 2-spoke or 4-spoke
> steering wheel.
> 
> I believe there are people who will restore steering wheels. You
> might find them thru Hemmings Motor News. (Do they still have a print
> version? If so, check your library.) I have no experience with any of
> them.
> 
> As an alternative, consider getting yours leather covered.
> 
> --
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
> 
> _______________________________________________
> VWType3.Org mailing list - type3 at vwtype3.org
> To unsubscribe or change subscription options, visit:
> http://lists.vwtype3.org/listinfo.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org
> If you need more help, contact: gregm at vwtype3.org
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 7
> Date: Mon, 29 Feb 2016 12:17:11 -0600
> From: "Jim Adney" <jadney at VWType3.org>
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Subject: Re: [T3] Factory Steering Wheel?
> Message-ID: <56D48B27.602.C8F213 at jadney.VWType3.org>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
> 
> On 29 Feb 2016 at 18:10, Daniel K. Du Vall wrote:
> 
> > Its the 4 spoke black one with the plastic cover that has a Wolfs Berg emblem on it. 
> > If its easy respired I would consider it and the leather ideas is an idea i had not thought of. 
> > But if all else fails I have seen a few out there that are of the same diameter and might work in place of it. 
> > Clearing the turn signals and such is of most importance.
> 
> That's the late, mid-'72 thru '73 version. I'll have to look to see 
> if I have one, but you might find one on the Samba.
> 
> I think the thing that kills our steering wheels is extreme cold. The 
> plastic shrinks more than the steel skeleton inside and eventually 
> the plastic cracks to accommodate the stress. I've noticed that the 
> cracks in mine get much smaller in warm weather. The wheel on the car 
> that's in an attached garage is still intact. All my others are 
> cracked.
> 
> I suspect those of you in warm climates don't have this problem.
> 
> -- 
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 8
> Date: Mon, 29 Feb 2016 11:39:02 -0800
> From: "William J" <catnine09 at dslextreme.com>
> To: <type3 at vwtype3.org>
> Subject: Re: [T3] Factory Steering Wheel?
> Message-ID: <20177E97CF8146A9AF291AFF5997278F at acere355056e8b>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> 	reply-type=original
> 
> The Steering wheel on my 73 is cracked in several places and it's always 
> been in southern Calif . It has not gotten any worse since I got it just 
> like the dash .
> 
>  I once thought of using epoxy if I added Black color to it to fill in the 
> cracks .
> 
>  I think part of the cracking where it's hot is due to the metal expanding 
> from the sun faster than the plastic and partly from the PO using the wheel 
> to hoist himself out of the car . I just ignore the cracks . Those after 
> market wheels cost a fortune . I'd rather have a cracked wheel that the 
> rubber feel of the ones most new cars have today, the ones that become 
> sticky from all the chemicals leaching out .
> 
> William
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Jim Adney" <jadney at VWType3.org>
> To: <type3 at vwtype3.org>
> Sent: Monday, February 29, 2016 10:17 AM
> Subject: Re: [T3] Factory Steering Wheel?
> 
> 
> > On 29 Feb 2016 at 18:10, Daniel K. Du Vall wrote:
> >
> >> Its the 4 spoke black one with the plastic cover that has a Wolfs Berg 
> >> emblem on it.
> >> If its easy respired I would consider it and the leather ideas is an idea 
> >> i had not thought of.
> >> But if all else fails I have seen a few out there that are of the same 
> >> diameter and might work in place of it.
> >> Clearing the turn signals and such is of most importance.
> >
> > That's the late, mid-'72 thru '73 version. I'll have to look to see
> > if I have one, but you might find one on the Samba.
> >
> > I think the thing that kills our steering wheels is extreme cold. The
> > plastic shrinks more than the steel skeleton inside and eventually
> > the plastic cracks to accommodate the stress. I've noticed that the
> > cracks in mine get much smaller in warm weather. The wheel on the car
> > that's in an attached garage is still intact. All my others are
> > cracked.
> >
> > I suspect those of you in warm climates don't have this problem.
> >
> > -- 
> > *******************************
> > Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> > Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> > *******************************
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > VWType3.Org mailing list - type3 at vwtype3.org
> > To unsubscribe or change subscription options, visit:
> > http://lists.vwtype3.org/listinfo.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org
> > If you need more help, contact: gregm at vwtype3.org
> > 
> 
> 
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 9
> Date: Mon, 29 Feb 2016 13:49:52 -0600
> From: dlstiefel <dlstiefel at dekalbk12.org>
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Subject: Re: [T3] Factory Steering Wheel?
> Message-ID: <88ddf3a1d167a2c0b134a9b3f9ddf82c at dekalbk12.org>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed
> 
> On 2016-02-29 09:15, Daniel K. Du Vall wrote:
> > I know this is probably an odd question because who would want to keep
> > the factory steering wheel of a 27 Squareback.
> > 
> > 
> > OK, so is there a way to fix cracks/ separations and a small missing
> > chunk to restore this wheel?
> > 
> > Some how I have grown to like this ugly thing.
> > 
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > 
> > Daniel Du Vall
> > -------------- next part --------------
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> > URL:
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> > VWType3.Org mailing list - type3 at vwtype3.org
> > To unsubscribe or change subscription options, visit:
> > http://lists.vwtype3.org/listinfo.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org
> > If you need more help, contact: gregm at vwtype3.org
> 
> I like mine. I just post a thread that mentions this but it's not 
> bouncing back. I have had all kinds of email and computer issues lately.
> 
> Dennis Stiefel
> 72 Fastback (Clementine)
> 70 Fastback (school project)
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Digest Footer
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> End of type3-vwtype3.org Digest, Vol 65, Issue 29
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