[T3] Question about D jet idle issues 73 T3

William J catnine09 at dslextreme.com
Wed Jan 27 21:12:48 PST 2016

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Adney" <jadney at VWType3.org>
To: <type3 at vwtype3.org>
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2016 8:29 PM
Subject: Re: [T3] Question about D jet idle issues 73 T3

> On 27 Jan 2016 at 19:53, William J wrote:
>> From: "Jim Adney" <jadney at VWType3.org>
>> >I should have mentioned this much earlier, but have you checked
>> > compression in each cylinder?
>>  Jim , no I haven't simply because this miss I speak of is not one 
>> cylinder
>> , all are affected . I pull each plug wire out of the cap the RPM drops 
>> the
>> same  amount . On top of this if one cylinder was weak it would not have 
>> the
>> power it does and I would feel it . If one were lower it would be either 
>> a
>> valve not seating or rings I see no evidence of either. I never find 
>> tight
>> valves or loose valves doing a valve adjust.
> A small leak would have a larger effect at idle, when there's more
> time for the leak to have some effect, but I agree that if it affects
> all cylinders equally that cause seems unlikely. Still, it's worth
> doing a compression test.
> Bob's suggestion about the temp sensor wire being too close to the
> (#4) plug wire might cause a problem with 2 cylinders, although I've
> never seen this problem (but that doesn't mean it's not a
> possibility.)
> Head studs pulling out of the case could make 2 or 4 cylinders leaky.
> Sure would hate for that to be the problem.

 Jim : Head studs , I don't want to even think about that one. My gut 
feeling tells me that is not the issue . I say this because I see no signs 
of oil leaks between the cylinders and case either side and no signs of any 
sort of carbon at the cylinders and heads and hear nothing like some people 
describe . Also if this were the case wouldn't I see a change in valve lash 
when adjusting the valves? They would or at least one would be tight if the 
studs were pulling the push rods would need to travel further to open the 
valves. I know the aluminum pushrods expand thus the .006 gap cold . I wish 
I had used the 8mm studs with inserts when I did this rebuild since things 
expand and contract hot to cold and back again . At the time in 97 I didn't 
know they existed . I torqued the heads per Bentley and used the 10 MM studs 
and not one even tried to turn . Anything is possible , I read about people 
even with the 8 mm running it a bit then pulling the engine and re torq. How 
much of this is hype , who knows. I never read a thing about it in any book 
like the Bentley . All I know is one the 73 case I still have was the 
original engine in this car with over 88,000 on the odometer and that did 
not work when I bought this car , they never pulled and this 72 case had oil 
leaks and less miles on it still had standard size bearings in it and the 
crank and cam were great and standard bearing went back in .

 If it happens then I guess I walk and do the 73 case as I can afford the 
parts. Or find a universal case or place pipe clamps from head to head . I 
really like the car always have . If it gets that bad and out my reach to 
repair I suppose someone would want a rust free SB and I'll find something 
cheap that's rear wheel drive and get over it.  It very well might out last 
me . I know how this may sound I don't intend to come off as sour. In many 
respects I've been very lucky , in others not so much just like everyone 

> -- 
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
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