[T3] Do you have a '68 or '70 Type 3?

[William J]

I'm a bit lost on the fuel pump prime. This is only on the stock pumps 
right?

 Isn't the check valve in the pump that holds the prime? Or does the 
pressure regulator also affect this?

 My pump is still the one it had when it got it in 85 . Maybe it's because I 
drove it everyday yet it always started just turning the key on didn't 
matter hot or cold .

 I can't recall when I had to cycle the key 4 to 5 times before it would 
start seems like maybe 2007 or 09 . Now suddenly after I was replacing the 
tie rod ends I checked the lines then pushed on the pumps plug and it went 
on maybe 1/8" further and this began . Once it starts I can shut it down for 
well over an hour and it fires back up.

 I suppose it's possible that pushing the plug further on could have put 
tarnished terminals on tarnished pump spades yet I do hear it run the few 
seconds and it starts after the 1st time . Most of the time it sits for 5 
days .

 I suppose it would not hurt to clean the pumps terminals .  What works best 
for cleaning the MAP and dist trigger and TVS terminals can't get in there 
with a wire brush . they seem to have some sort of silver color coating on 
them meaning the male ends.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Adney" <jadney at VWType3.org>
To: <type3 at vwtype3.org>
Sent: Saturday, July 09, 2016 3:58 PM
Subject: Re: [T3] Do you have a '68 or '70 Type 3?


> On 9 Jul 2016 at 17:04, Gary Forsmo wrote:
>
>>    1. After my car has been sitting (for several days or weeks), about 
>> *how
>>    long* should I "activate" the spring loaded fuel pump switch to fully
>>    pressurize the fuel ring, before turning the Ignition Switch to start 
>> the
>>    engine?
>
> Whatever air/fumes gets in there will happen in the first few hours
> after shutdown. After that, any additional time will make very little
> difference. Whatever happens will depend completely on how hot the
> engine was when you last shut it off.
>
> For example: Suppose you go out now, prime the system, start the car,
> and then let it run about 20 seconds, or just enough to get the idle
> smooth, then shut it off. Now the system is full and the engine is
> cold. Next time you start, you won't have to use the primer switch at
> all; just turn the key ON, wait for the pump to run for 1 second,
> then start. That works because the engine was shut down cold and
> full.
>
> OTOH, if you drive to Madison, stop to fill up the gas, then get back
> in the car, there's probably been little time for the heat to soak
> into the gas lines and boil the gas. So you can probably prime it for
> 5 seconds then start.
>
> Finally, if you drive to Madison and then back home and park it hot,
> you'll want to prime it for 10-20 seconds the next morning.
>
>>    2. Will I *hear* an audible change in the fuel pump motor when the 
>> fuel
>>    ring is fully charged?
>
> I don't think you'll hear any change in the sound of the pump. What
> you will hear at first will be just the sound of the pump running,
> then the sound of air/fume bubbling up in the gas tank, then nothing
> (meaning most of the air has cleared out of the fuel loop.) At some
> point there may be a sort of moan coming from the rear; that's the
> sound of bubbles coming thru the pressure regulator.
>
> I usually try to start the car a few seconds after I stop hearing
> bubbles coming up in the gas tank. It probably won't start right
> instantly, because there will still be air in the injectors, because
> those are on side branches of the fuel ring, so they won't get swept
> completely free of air.
>
> Your experience will be your best teacher. I find that 5-10 seconds
> is often enough. In Prescott, I sometimes did it for as long as 30
> seconds.
>
> -- 
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
>
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