[T3] Draw on battery.

[William J]

Since it's FI . Once you determine where the draw is and since the battery 
will be disconnected during the amp draw test you might be able to at least 
remove one hot lead of the three fuses at the botton on the box . The ones 
that stay hot are usually 7 8  & 9 with  the key off. they are bridged 
internally in the fuse box at the lower or bottom of each fuse the top 
become hot and are fused..

 My guess is something is staying on and checking this way will help 
eliminate  quite a bit . It's not easy yet if you can rule out say the ign 
switch or power relay , pump relay it will save a lot of time.

 I'd say if you find the draw is from the regulator to the dash leave the 
heavy red /white on and pull one of the others because the red white is the 
main feed so you want to check just after that to rule out the FI and relays 
. Som fuse 7 is FI relays find that connector on the bottom of fuse 7 and 
pull it being careful with n old fuse box . If you have the schematic it 
will help it may be posted on line on samba think I saw it there.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "dlstiefel" <dlstiefel at dekalbk12.org>
To: <type3 at vwtype3.org>
Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2016 4:47 PM
Subject: Re: [T3] Draw on battery.


> On 2016-06-23 17:43, Jim Adney wrote:
>> On 23 Jun 2016 at 11:07, dlstiefel wrote:
>>
>>> When I got home I didn't shut it off and hooked up the DVOM to the
>>> battery and got about 14.3 volts. Then I shut the engine off the volts
>>> dropped down to about 13.5.
>>
>> That sounds just about perfect.
>>
>>> I then took the ground off cable the battery put one lead on the
>>> ground cable and the other on the negative post on the battery. The DVOM
>>> red 12.5 volts.
>>
>> At this point, as William said, you should be trying to read current.
>> The current you read should be the same, if you break the ground link
>> or the hot link, but breaking the ground side is MUCH safer.
>>
>>
>>> I started pulling the fuses one by one look at the
>>> reading then put the fuse back in. No change on any fuse. I then
>>> unhooked the wire from the positive side of the battery to the voltage
>>> regulator and it dropped close to 0. So I thought OK it's the regulator.
>>
>> That's not really much of a test.
>
> OK give me 30 lashes for that one LOL but in my defense it has helped my 
> find where the battery draws on a car was for many years. However it dose 
> seem more thorough to measure amps so you got me there. Like I told 
> William I will try it wouldn't be the first time I was wrong.
>
>> With the DVM still reading current
>> in the ground link, leave the wire from the + post to the VR in place
>> and pull off the wire that leads from the VR to the rest of the car.
>>
>> If the current in the DVM goes to zero, the leak is somewhere in the
>> car. (Not everything is fused.)
>
> Yes I know that's why I moved on to the regulator after that just 
> eliminating what I considered the easy stuff first.
>
>> If the current still doesn't go to zero, there's a problem in the VR.
> OK like I told William I will look at the amps next.
>>
>>> By the way I just put this regulator on the car back during the big
>>> restoration. It's one of those newer compact solid state ones that Bosch
>>> makes now.
>>
>> It's always possible that something has gone wrong inside the VR. I
>> don't know what's in there either. If you're seeing more than 20 mA
>> of drain current just into the VR, my guess is that that's wrong.
>> It's possible that they all draw 5-10 mA even when off, but that
>> would surprise me, and that amount of drain is so little that you'd
>> never notice it.
>>
>> I don't have any personal experience with the new SS VRs. I'll be
>> producing my own refurbished old style Bosch boxes with solid state
>> innards by the end of the year. Versions available for either 6 or 12
>> V. Should mean the last VR you should ever buy.  ;-)
>
> Will Look forward to that Jim. But in the mean time if the VR dose turn up 
> bad I will just have to get another one like I have now.
>
> Dennis
>
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