[T3] Bad day at the (FI) office
topnotch at nycap.rr.com
Thu Mar 31 16:51:08 PDT 2016
the mechanical ones do leak air, thats normal. Some drift in idle is normal
too,remember... this is an open loop system trying its best to run on
Ethanol, I wouldnt worry about a 100RPM hunt but in general, idle speed is
most effected by vacuum leaks. a loose AAR could do that.
topnotch at nycap.rr.com
71 Squareback "Hothe"
65 Notchback "El Baja Rojo"
93 RX7 "Redstur"
87 Golf "Winterat"
From: type3-vwtype3.org [mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org]
On Behalf Of Daniel Nohejl
Sent: Thursday, March 31, 2016 6:36 PM
To: type3 at vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] Bad day at the (FI) office
> If one shock has gone bad, it's possible that one side of the car
> wants to keep bouncing while the other side is damped. This might
> start to look like side to side motion. You should also check the
> diagonal arms and make sure the pivot bushings at their front/inner
> ends are still working/intact/attached. Maybe just check to make sure
> those 2 big pivot bolts are still in place.
Yeah, I'll have to inspect the situation this weekend and see if anything is
loose, missing, etc. I'll also try to take a video of the motion when I
bounce the rear end but again, when I push down, it springs right back up
and then sways side to side. It doesn't seem better or worse from one side
to the other but I'll check again.
> Do you notice any difference in the ride? Even with one bad shock,
> you may not notice any difference. Gary Forsmo drove quite a few
> miles to get his '69 here with one shock completely removed. He said
> it seemed to ride pretty normally. That was on generally good roads.
> Shocks become more and more important as the roads get worse.
In addition to the "bump steer", the rear end feels kind of like it's
kicking out on big bumps or potholes when at higher speeds and in general
seems a bit more jittery. We have some truly awful roads in NYC so who knows
what's happening or has happened to the suspension. I checked the tire
pressure and it's fine.
In other news, we've developed a hunt at idle. I started noticing it either
yesterday or the day before and today it was even more apparent, especially
once the motor was fully warm on this nice 70* day. It's not quite as
regular/rythmic as hunts we've had in the past, but it's quite noticeable
with swings of around 100 rpm so it'd run down to 820 rpm and up to 920 rpm
where we set the the idle on Sunday. I pulled the hose from the oil bath to
the AAR off of the oil bath and put my thumb over the end. There was quite a
bit of suction, but instead of my thumb over the end making the idle
stabilize, it still hunted. However, the overall idle speed dipped about 100
rpm lower so the hunt was now 750 rpm to 850rpm.
Clearly, the AAR is suddenly not closing all the way, but there's still a
vac leak somewhere.
I sprayed around and didn't find any smoking guns. It seems there might be a
leak at the back (or is that actually the front) of the IAD but I also feel
like once you start spraying enough carb cleaner around, it's going to get
sucked in somewhere along the system. I was on my own, so I'll have to wait
until I have my partner's ears to help me out.
Interestingly, the readings at everyone's favorite AFR gauge were different
than what I normally see at a hunt, which is a big lean surge followed by a
deep rich dip...up to 16 and down to 11 for example. The new hunt goes a
little lean and then comes back to "normal" without dipping rich..starting
at 13.5 then spiking to 15 then returning to 13.5.
Also, as an aside, I noted that with the resistor off of the CHTS, I had
only 59 ohms of resistance and 162 with the resistor back on. If it's only
70* and it's reading that low, isn't it fairly safe to assume that on even
hotter days it would drop even lower?
As another aside, we just got an electric AAR in the mail the other day. It
was cheap and we ordered it months ago after we realized we had a D rather
than O shaped hole in the case. It took just about forever to arrive from
Canada. Anyway, are these known to be any more reliable with fully closing
than the purely mechanical ones?
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