[T3] Brake Bleeding

[Dave Hall]

I suggest you open up the joint you recently had apart (RR?) and see if you
can get a squirt of fluid from the hose itself.  If you don't, it may be the
MC rear piston seal.  Those can go hard with time, and sometimes leak, which
eventually appears at the tunnel drain near the back of the floorpan.  I had
it do that one winter when the weather was around freezing, but it was fine
when it got warmer again.

Apart from the small amount expelled during bleeding, has the rear section
in the reservoir (left?) gone down at all?

When you had the circuit apart for changing the rear hose, did fluid dribble
out?  Did you have to plug it with something to stop it flowing?  If it
didn't, you must have a blockage somewhere in the rear steel pipe or the one
from reservoir to M/C, or the compensating port in the rear circuit is
blocked.  Maybe a bit of rubber has broken off when making a connection.

The day, month and year of manufacture is usually impressed in the rubber of
the hose (unless that's just a European thing).


Dave
UK VW Type 3&4 Club
===================

-----Original Message-----
From: type3-vwtype3.org [mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org]
On Behalf Of J. Jonik
Sent: 11 May 2016 02:30
To: type3 at vwtype3.org
Subject: [T3] Brake Bleeding

After replacing two rubber brake hoses (RF and RR), assuring that there's no
leaks anywhere, adjusting rear brakes a few times (to be sure), checking
that all brake pads are up to spec, and bleeding brakes today...twice...with
two mechanically-competent people with actual feet....the brakes feel
somewhat better....But they are still not right.   First brake push needs a
2nd or 3rd push to feel right. 

These are not brakes to use effectively if a deer jumps in front of you on a
dark road.
Both of today's bleeds (with actual feet, not just the stick-against-seat
trick) got good, got serious (no air evident) fluid squirts from front
caliper valves...but just one little air fizzle from LR, and then just what
might best be called "leakage" of fluid from both rear valves. Rear valves
didn't squirt.


Why didn't rear valves SQUIRT out fluid when brake pedal was depressed as
far as it can go?  Where's the pressure?  Again, RR brake hose is brand
new....the LR to be replaced as soon as UPS delivers new hose...doesn't even
look old.

How to know if this is, or is not, a Master Cylinder problem?  I'd hate to
have to replace Master Cylinder "just in case".
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