[T3] Phill from Samba sent a link to a few photo's of the AAR

[William J]

In that photo I sent it does not look like any oil got in the heater yet the 
poster did not say if he cleaned it all I see is a bit of black soot . I 
have no idea what either of the chemicals Ray suggested are either all I 
could find is berrymans is strong stuff. and seaform is less strong all the 
companies state is how to use the stuff. Berrymans is a sort of carb cleaner 
. Plus the fellow took his apart and cleaned the valve with acetone and carb 
cleaner. I don't know perhaps I'll just get some spray carb cleaner and 
spray in the ports upside down and then blow it out and power it up and see 
what gives.

 Also the fuel hose kit you sell to replace the rubber hose under the left 
fender . I filled up today and saw fuel on the ground and that boot that 
seals the filler neck to the fender is shot . If I don't fill the tank full 
I smell fuel inside the frunk slight smell today I really smell it outside 
the car and in my garage . My guess is since the boot is shot the smell gets 
in the frunk and from the cracked hose with a full tank in may leak a bit so 
I smell it everywhere now . how much was your kit for a 73 and the shipping 
to 90028 . Without the vent and expansion tank under the LF fender and 
charcoal deal in the back if I use your kit with a full tank will I get gas 
fumes from expansion tank full on a hot day since yours vents under the car 
somewhere?
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Adney" <jadney at vwtype3.org>
To: <type3 at vwtype3.org>
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2017 3:02 PM
Subject: Re: [T3] Phill from Samba sent a link to a few photo's of the AAR


> On 1 Aug 2017 at 10:48, William J wrote:
>
>> I posted on Samba where I got the photo's and Ray Greenwood chimed in and
>> said not to use ATF because it's an oil and if it gets down to the 
>> heating
>> element being an oil it will carbonize and cause the heating element to 
>> fail
>> over time.
>
> Sounds reasonable. I don't know how hot the heater gets, but it's probably 
> a
> good idea to keep oil out of it if possible. That said, my guess is that 
> the
> years of breathing oil mist have probably already filled the heater 
> chamber
> with oil.
>
> IF the oil is clean, and IF the heater doesn't get too hot, that oil bath 
> is
> probably not a bad thing, but I agree that caution is appropriate.
>
> I'd like to know how full of oil all these are by now.
>
>> Keep the AAR as upside down as possible and soak the top rotary valve
>> section ...ONLY....in something like Berrymans B-12 chemtool.
>>
>> Even if you get chemtool or carb cleaner down inside on the coil.....it 
>> will
>> largely evaporate and the coil will be fine. Ray"
>
> I don't know what's in those cleaners, so I don't have an opinion on what
> might work best.
>
>>  I was going to hang the unit upside down so the fluid just goes into the
>> nipple that has the hose to the IAD and no deeper then drain the fluid 
>> out
>> and still upside down maybe use brake clean to flush the fluid out or 
>> should
>> I just get acetone and hang it in that and let it evaporate then blow it
>> out?
>
> If you use something that will fully evaporate, as Ray says, there should 
> be
> no problem filling up the AAR with it. If you use ATF (with or without
> acetone) you could probably fully immerse it, as long as it is upside 
> down.
>
> If you immerse it unside down, you should also drain it upside down.
>
> -- 
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
>
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