[T3] Phill from Samba sent a link to a few photo's of the AAR

Wed Aug 2 10:53:05 PDT 2017

Has any one ever used an ultrasonic cleaner to clean the deposits from the valve. I feel as if that would work. Would the valve even have to be opened for that. I do not believe so.

Brion S

Southern Utah

________________________________
From: type3-vwtype3.org <type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org> on behalf of William J <catnine09 at dslextreme.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 2, 2017 11:04:53 AM
To: type3 at vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] Phill from Samba sent a link to a few photo's of the AAR

Jim : I PM'd the fellow who actually did the cleaning of his AAR, the
photo's I linked and sent to you . Here is what he said . It seems his did
not have any oil on the heating coil area and that he took the valve out of
the body to clean the valve and the body . The good news is the valve must
fit snug enough in the valve body that oil fumes do not reach the coil area
. In his original post he mentioned his AAR was stuck in one position for
years .

"I took mine completely apart and then soaked both parts of the valve
submerged in cleaner. The deposits on my valve were so stubborn that had to
use different cleaners, as well as a lot of manual cleaning with a rag and
wooden chopstick.

As you can see from my photos, the coil was perfectly clean, having been
sealed in its can.

I believe that you are planning to clean yours upside down, just immersing
the valve. This may work if the solvent acts on the deposits, and it should
keep the coil clean and dry. You can test the operation of the valve easily
by connecting it to 12v and observing the movement. "

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Adney" <jadney at vwtype3.org>
To: <type3 at vwtype3.org>
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2017 3:02 PM
Subject: Re: [T3] Phill from Samba sent a link to a few photo's of the AAR

> On 1 Aug 2017 at 10:48, William J wrote:
>
>> I posted on Samba where I got the photo's and Ray Greenwood chimed in and
>> said not to use ATF because it's an oil and if it gets down to the
>> heating
>> element being an oil it will carbonize and cause the heating element to
>> fail
>> over time.
>
> Sounds reasonable. I don't know how hot the heater gets, but it's probably
> a
> good idea to keep oil out of it if possible. That said, my guess is that
> the
> years of breathing oil mist have probably already filled the heater
> chamber
> with oil.
>
> IF the oil is clean, and IF the heater doesn't get too hot, that oil bath
> is
> probably not a bad thing, but I agree that caution is appropriate.
>
> I'd like to know how full of oil all these are by now.
>
>> Keep the AAR as upside down as possible and soak the top rotary valve
>> section ...ONLY....in something like Berrymans B-12 chemtool.
>>
>> Even if you get chemtool or carb cleaner down inside on the coil.....it
>> will
>> largely evaporate and the coil will be fine. Ray"
>
> I don't know what's in those cleaners, so I don't have an opinion on what
> might work best.
>
>>  I was going to hang the unit upside down so the fluid just goes into the
>> nipple that has the hose to the IAD and no deeper then drain the fluid
>> out
>> and still upside down maybe use brake clean to flush the fluid out or
>> should
>> I just get acetone and hang it in that and let it evaporate then blow it
>> out?
>
> If you use something that will fully evaporate, as Ray says, there should
> be
> no problem filling up the AAR with it. If you use ATF (with or without
> acetone) you could probably fully immerse it, as long as it is upside
> down.
>
> If you immerse it unside down, you should also drain it upside down.
>
> --
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
>
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