[T3] Phill from Samba sent a link to a few photo's of the AAR

Fri Aug 11 08:28:27 PDT 2017

Great details and important AAR maintenance safety tips!

So far this past week, I've been driving the Fastback quite a bit. Engine
response has been great since my AAR swap. The car has become A LOT more
pleasant to drive!

QUESTION:

What about the adjustment screw on the mechanical AAR? I didn't touch mine
as it was set on center at 0. I suppose the adjustment to left or right
would decrease or increase the AAR's open / close amount upon warm-up /
cool down? Should I dare adjust to gain a better response? Open faster,
close slower. Or?
Perhaps this isn't how the adjustment works.

IF you've made adjustments to your own AARs, what was your experience with
the adjustment helping or not?

Happy Friday.

Jared

>Jim one last question.
>I posted on Samba where I got the photo's and Ray Greenwood chimed in and
said not to use ATF because it's an oil and if it gets down to the heating
element being an oil >it will carbonize and cause the heating element to
fail over time.

>This is what he said
>"NO NO! WAIT! .....soaking the electric model of AAR ....especially the
round type 3/4 model.....is BAD!

>The oil will coat the heating coil inside....char over time to
carbon....and eventually destroy it.

>Keep the AAR as upside down as possible and soak the top rotary valve
section ...ONLY....in something like Berrymans B-12 chemtool.

>Even if you get chemtool or carb cleaner down inside on the coil.....it
will largely evaporate and the coil will be fine. Ray"

>He also meantined seafoam spray in another in this post
>"Berrymans is fast.....seafoam is slower.

>The problem with these AARs is that they get gummed up from the oul bath
air cleaners....and tge spring gets weak with age (secondary issue). If you
can dissolve any >varnish....then blow it out and oil it lightly.....as
long as the coil heats correctly and the bi-metal spring is working.....its
decent. "

>I was going to hang the unit upside down so the fluid just goes into the
nipple that has the hose to the IAD and no deeper then drain the fluid out
and still upside down >maybe use brake clean to flush the fluid out or
should I just get acetone and hang it in that and let it evaporate then
blow it out?

>William

On Tue, Aug 1, 2017 at 10:48 AM, William J <catnine09 at dslextreme.com> wrote:

> Jim one last question.
> I posted on Samba where I got the photo's and Ray Greenwood chimed in and
> said not to use ATF because it's an oil and if it gets down to the heating
> element being an oil it will carbonize and cause the heating element to
> fail over time.
>
> This is what he said
> "NO NO! WAIT! .....soaking the electric model of AAR ....especially the
> round type 3/4 model.....is BAD!
>
> The oil will coat the heating coil inside....char over time to
> carbon....and eventually destroy it.
>
> Keep the AAR as upside down as possible and soak the top rotary valve
> section ...ONLY....in something like Berrymans B-12 chemtool.
>
> Even if you get chemtool or carb cleaner down inside on the coil.....it
> will largely evaporate and the coil will be fine. Ray"
>
> He also meantined seafoam spray in another in this post
> "Berrymans is fast.....seafoam is slower.
>
> The problem with these AARs is that they get gummed up from the oul bath
> air cleaners....and tge spring gets weak with age (secondary issue). If you
> can dissolve any varnish....then blow it out and oil it lightly.....as long
> as the coil heats correctly and the bi-metal spring is working.....its
> decent. "
>
> I was going to hang the unit upside down so the fluid just goes into the
> nipple that has the hose to the IAD and no deeper then drain the fluid out
> and still upside down maybe use brake clean to flush the fluid out or
> should I just get acetone and hang it in that and let it evaporate then
> blow it out?
>
> William
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Adney" <jadney at vwtype3.org>
> To: <type3 at vwtype3.org>
> Sent: Monday, July 31, 2017 3:22 PM
> Subject: Re: [T3] Phill from Samba sent a link to a few photo's of the AAR
>
>
>
> On 31 Jul 2017 at 14:20, William J wrote:
>>
>> If I remove it and add ATF should I just let it drain out after powering
>>> it a few times ? or blow it out with compressed air . I don't care to use
>>> carb cleaner since it's so harsh
>>>
>>
>> I agree that carb cleaner would be awfully harsh. I would let a mixture
>> of ATF
>> and mineral spirits soak for 24 hours, or at least overnight, while also
>> cycling
>> it thru several warmup/cooldown cycles. Then dump it out.
>>
>> If what comes out looks dirty, repeat until it comes out pretty clean.
>>
>> This will take some time, but at least it's mostly just sitting around
>> time.
>>
>> --
>> *******************************
>> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
>> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
>> *******************************
>>
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>>
>
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