[T3] Broken Brakes?

J. Jonik j_jonik at yahoo.com
Tue May 9 16:08:50 PDT 2017


When I bleed brakes without a helper, I pump the pedal, then jam a wood 
pole between the  pedal and the seat so that the seat acts as a push on 
pedal...enough to send a squirt to the bleeder valves.  It's good 
exercise.because it has to be done several times for each valve...but it ultimately works.
  Even though MC seems shot, this kind of bleeding
did enough to get fluid squirts from both front valves, dribble from 
one rear, and nothing from the other rear....which I will check as 
advised.
  Brake pedal never got to even near good...but, enough to 
do that bleeding.  Amazing that with pedal down so low, the car can 
stop....IF I drive Very Carefully during this repair adventure.

* I have a couple thru-the-car metal brake lines in parts collection.  
But if the existing one has a rust leak...that'll be bad news because 
driver's seat Will Not Budge to remove it to replace a brake line or 
repair rug or floor.   Seat is frozen in place.  Tried everything a few 
times to move it.  No luck.  No sign of any under-car dampness to 
indicate fluid leak...but a peek behind pedal assembly finds wetness 
around the rubber cap on the MC push rod.

* Re/ checking bore in Master Cylinder(s) [I have about 6]...check for what?  Scratches?  Pitting?  Rust? Crud?

Message: 7
Date: Tue, 09 May 2017 09:46:32 -0500

From: "Jim Adney" <jadney at vwtype3.org>

To: type3 at vwtype3.org

Subject: Re: [T3] Broken Brakes?

Message-ID: <5911D648.3594.8E642BBC at jadney.vwtype3.org>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII


What the MC looks like on the outside is pretty much irrelevant. Take it apart 

and inspect the bore.


When you checked the bleed valves, did you have someone pump the brake 

pedal while you watched, or were you just watching for fluid to drip out? If 

the latter, get someone to pump while you watch. Check the fluid reservoir 

first to make sure that both sides are full up to the seam.


If you have fluid and if nothing comes out even with someone pushing on the 

pedal, Remove the bleed valve completely to make sure it's not plugged by 

rust or dirt. If nothing still comes out, it's no likely to be a wheel cylinder 

problem. It's more likely to be a hose or MC problem, but that can be hard to 

pin down. Try loosening connections, working your way forward from the 

rear wheels until you get fluid coming out. Once you get fluid, you know the 

blockage is somewhere after that point and before the previous point where 

fluid did not come out.


It's also possible that your main line to the rear has rusted out under the gas 

pedal and you just haven't noticed the smell or wetness under the carpet. I 

can make correct rear lines, but they are a PITA to replace.


Jim


On 8 May 2017 at 22:42, J. Jonik wrote:


> It's pretty certain that master cylinder ('71, Std.) needs to be 
replaced, but today, just to get prepped to do that job...with a nicely 
wrapped, unrusted, good-when-salvaged-from-parts-car, master cylinder... I went around to check brake pads.  Replaced just one.

>    Thought to bleed brakes just to see what would happen.  Two front 
valves gave nice, bubble-free squirts.  Left rear just dribbled...after 
an audible whiff of air.  Right rear did the little whiff of air 
too...but not a drop of fluid came out...despite multiple attempts.  I 
even let it sit a bit to see if it would just leak.  Nothing.


-- 

*******************************

Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org

Madison, Wisconsin, USA
*******************************


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