[T3] 1971 Squareback F.I. Auto; new engine coming

[Jim Adney]

On 3 May 2017 at 13:54, Stet Sanborn wrote:

> 1) I've got the factory 3-speed auto.  The car has just over 100,000 miles
> on it; if I'm doing an engine swap, should I also find a shop to do an
> overhaul on the transmission?  I haven't noticed any problems (other than I
> need to adjust my kickdown switch).  But; given age, etc... is it best done
> now while I've got the engine already coming out? They seem to be a pretty
> robust build.

There's always a large random factor in the outcome of any work you 
ask someone else to do. The ATs have been extremely durable, so 
turning one over to someone to rebuild "just because" strikes me as a 
waste of money with a significant possibility of a poor outcome. I 
wouldn't do it.

FYI, my '69 is on it's (at least) 3rd engine, but the AT remains 
untouched, except for replacement of the O-ring under the governor 
cover. That O-ring can (and should) be replaced with the engine and 
AT still in the car. (You need that O-ring if the left side of the AT 
is much oiler than the right.)

> 2) I'm trying to decide between a stock 1600, or ACN's 1800cc
> mini-stroker.  Any trouble with a larger displacement and the Automatic
> transmission?  A few folks on Samba have indicated they've done the 1800cc
> with stock F.I; but I wanted to run in by the experts.  I wouldn't mind a
> bit of extra power, but not at the expense of other parts of the car.

Sorry, I don't know how far you can push the AT before it starts to 
suffer.

I'm admittedly wedded to stock, primarily because that's where it's 
easiest to get factory longevity and reliability. Yes, you can get 
that with larger displacement engines, but not with the parts that 
most places sell. Plan to spend big bucks from the priciest places 
for parts and machine work if that's what you want, and don't expect 
a random stranger to put the same care into the assembly that you 
would if you had the time.

If you're thinking about buying an engine from one of the mail order 
builders, I'd advise you to hang on to your OE engine, as you'll 
probably discover that the engine you get will need some Type 3 parts 
that the builder didn't know about. Plus that core engine will give 
you the base to eventually do the rebuild you really wanted. Keep in 
mind that the engine you get from a rebuilder will consist of parts 
that other people didn't want.

The workability with the D-jet FI can be a problem. Yes, it can 
probably be done, but don't expect it to be a drop-in slam dunk.  

In your position, here's what I'd recommend: Buy a virgin '70-1 
engine from somewhere. Tear it down and build it up as your time 
permits. Do the research and the work yourself. Ask a lot of 
questions and work slowly and carefully. It won't matter how long it 
takes, as long as you have a place to do the work, since the engine 
in your car is still running (and will probably continue to run for 
much longer than you think.) Once you're finished, you have your 
rebuild, plus a running core that you can quickly swap back in if you 
run into a problem.  

If you're interested in doing this yourself, I have a writeup with 
things that I recommend be put into a careful engine rebuild. Some of 
these things will give you just as much street cred as a larger 
engine, along with better reliability and durability along with a bit 
more power.

> 3) The car also has the dealer installed A/C unit, although I'm pretty sure
> the compressor was leaking, so I disconnected it years ago and plugged the
> holes into the fan housing.  Have their been any new products out there for
> replacement compressors (more efficient, less drag, etc) that anyone has
> seen?  I'm tempted just to pull it out completely, but might give it
> another shot at life.

I understand the appeal of AC, but we have to keep in mind that this 
was something that VWAG never considered or engineered. In this 
country it was 
something designed here and dealer installed, to make sales to people 
who would only consider buying a car with AC. I don't like it because 
it adds extra heat load to the engine at the exact time when the 
engine's own heat load is at its maximum. In other words, when it's 
hot out and the engine's cooling system is already working at its 
max, why add more load, and heat, to the engine?

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Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
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