[T3] I tried seaching on Samba on the subject of engine oil .

[William J]

 I know I saw a few topics here related to it .

I  tend to search topics when I get an idea in my head , this times it's engine oil .

I understand the later relief and control valves. When I rebuilt this engine , yes in 1997 I've got it. 

Broke it in using Kendall 40 weight when it was still Kendall . It became something else or some compamy bought them and the brand name changed , something along those lines. 

 Until 2005/06 I used it because I had a small supply.

 Fast forward to 2007 if I recall and really does it matter I used Castrol 40 weight conventional and around 09 it was Castrol 20/50 conventional. Really have put at most 2500 miles since then using the 20/50 . 

 I use VDO add on gauges oil press/ temp/voltmeter , these are just because I've had them even before the rebuild so I just have a baseline . VDO cock pit , electric. 

 Point is I came across a post on Samba while sitting deciding on a few parts .

 It was all about oil type , viscosity , pressure .......... does thick oil allow the oil bypass to not allow oil through the cooler - result runs hot and depending on bearing condition thick oil may not cool the bearing fast enough = short life. . 

 It comes down to this for me. Can't trust the gauges really we know this. I know I never put crap oil in it and never let it go more than 3k between changes and I replaced both valves and springs bypass and control , they were not stuck in the case I rebuilt. 

 All I know is thinner oil makes sense yet based on my driving habits where this car is driven at most 400 miles per year and it does get hot here I don't need freeway driving to see 175 F on my oil temp , however that's maybe 60 days out of 365 . Most times it sits at 120 on the 120-300 gauge . If my 80 PSI pressure gauge is close then 60PSI startup then drops down to 45 @1000 RPM still showing 120 temp . Best I can recall I see 165-180 temp on a hot day and 30PSI 1000 RPM at times say 180 22 psi . 
 
 Now since I chose all by my self to get caught up in this thought process , can't say I need the zinc content required for flat tappet lifters , not sure ,seems to run the same as it has pep wise and I hear no bearing noise. 

 Based on this and maybe at most between 35 and 40k on it now , lost my old note book. 
 
 Should I just go to a 10/40 and maybe Valvoline or these 15/40 shell Rotella diesel oils , not synthetic or high milage blend , not after all this time. What I cannot answer is if oil does flow through my cooler a little , 50% or at all. How would I even know .

 Not sure about 2500 rpm driving not the same as hot and sitting running the RPM's up. Can't say I want to do that . With an auto trans heat blowing off the convertor fins at the top may also be a factor. 

 Here if you dare to look down for an instant no matter the speed you may now forget about all I just asked. 

 JUst asking mostly about oil . Got some Valvoline 10/40 thought i'd try it to see if I see a change and I won't see it climbing a long grade mostly flat /slight   at 45 MPH max.Pouring the 20/50 it looks pretty thin to me 10/40 might look like whole milk. Never lower than 60 F when I start it . I tend to think stop and go here it gets hotter than 60 on the freeway 99.5% of my driving is 45 and below keep the auto in 2nd because 45 is not often not on these surface streets.stop signs and lights and traffic . in 3rd it downshifts to much and likes 2nd. 

 
  

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