[T3] I tried seaching on Samba on the subject of engine oil .

[William J]

 I wanted to add. VDO does offer a mechanical pressure gauge and I think the 
tubing would be safe . I used SW in my 69 E300 ford van and ran all the 
mechanical oil pressure and water temp and vacuum down the left a pillar so 
the gauges were above the wind screen , not quite as far as a t-3 from the 
dash to the engine. Or see if they offer copper. I spoke to their tech dept 
and they feel the sender I have might be the issue. That part costs more 
than the mechanical gauge and the line. That's down the road , I need other 
things more. It does work as least so I can at least tell if a 10/40 changes 
things and if it's still high maybe 10/30.

 This engine does not have that many miles on it 35K or a bit above. I used 
the crank and cam that were in the 72 case I rebuilt since they checked out 
fine . I changed the pump and lifters and used all standard bearings . It 
seems to have the same pep it always has. All the parts were German VW parts 
pump .bearings , lifters all of it.

 I never used cheap off brand oil in it yet have no idea what the cam is 
like now. Only way to know it tear down. I just don't feel it's bad enough 
in any way to justify that.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "William J" <catnine09 at dslextreme.com>
To: <type3 at vwtype3.org>
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2017 7:27 PM
Subject: Re: [T3] I tried seaching on Samba on the subject of engine oil .


>I broke it in on 40 weight Kedall before it changed into something else . 
>Used to get an oil light flicker at idle on hot runs.
>
> From what I can find in conventional oils Valvoline 10/40 at least states 
> there is zinc on their site Castrol 20/50 GTX does not list it at all.
>
> To get anything else there is lucas at autozone. $20 pint. If I go by my 
> VDO pressure gauge it reads higher than 10 PSI per 1000 RPM. I can't say 
> it's very accurate.
>
> Thought next change I would try the Valvoline 10/40 and see what that 
> offers. I imagine it's at least as good as if not better than Castrol GTX.
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <Bobsnotch at aol.com>
> To: <type3 at vwtype3.org>
> Sent: Monday, October 16, 2017 5:34 PM
> Subject: Re: [T3] I tried seaching on Samba on the subject of engine oil .
>
>
>> In a message dated 10/16/2017 1:15:25 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
>> catnine09 at dslextreme.com writes:
>>
>> Now  since I chose all by my self to get caught up in this thought 
>> process
>> , can't  say I need the zinc content required for flat tappet lifters , 
>> not
>> sure ,seems  to run the same as it has pep wise and I hear no bearing 
>> noise.
>> Actually you do need to worry about it, because the oil companies  took 
>> it
>> out of the oil starting around 2000. Without the ZDDP (zinc) you're 
>> wearing
>> the lobes off the cam. It won't wear or cause wear to the engine 
>> bearings,
>> but it will cause wear metal to metal contact surfaces.
>>
>> At this point since you broke the engine in with 20W50, I'd keep  using 
>> it,
>> although I'd look for an oil WITH ZDDP in it. Your other option is to 
>> add
>> the ZDDP to the oil. You can add Lucas, or go with something else like 
>> GM's
>> EOS (Engine Oil Supplement). I use EOS, and it's not cheap at 30 bucks 
>> for
>> a  small pint container (I add a 1/2 pint with every oil change), but it
>> beats  taking out the engine, and tearing it down to replace the 
>> camshaft. I
>> think of  it as cheap insurance. I've put about 12K on it in 10 years of
>> summer only  driving, and that includes some hard miles in the middle of 
>> summer
>> going to and  from a Type 3 Invasion.
>>
>> The reason for the removal of zinc (ZDDP) was it clogged catalytic
>> converters, and manufacturers switched to roller cams and away from "flat 
>> tappet"
>> cams. This is what the GM dealer told me, and can be found researching
>> oils, so it's not just something I'm pulling out of my butt. :-)
>>
>>
>> Bob 65 Notch  w/Factory Sunroof converted to  IRS
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