[T3] I tried seaching on Samba on the subject of engine oil .

Keith Park topnotch at nycap.rr.com
Mon Oct 16 20:02:59 PDT 2017


Electric gauges cannot be trusted, if anyone has ever had an electric sender
last for more than a few months let me know, Ive had a half dozen in the RX7
and every one has died early, im ready to rip it out and run the tube as
nobody can seem to supply me with a reliable electric sender.

Keith


Topnotch Restorations
topnotch at nycap.rr.com
http://www.a383ina68.addr.com/radiorest/main.htm
71 Squareback  "Hothe"
65 Notchback  "El Baja Rojo"
93 RX7  "Redstur"
87 Golf  "Winterat" RIP
01 Sentra SE "Boremobile"
 

-----Original Message-----
From: type3-vwtype3.org [mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org]
On Behalf Of William J
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2017 10:18 PM
To: type3 at vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] I tried seaching on Samba on the subject of engine oil .

 My oil pressure IF I can trust the VDO electric gauge is 60 PSI on start up

doesn't seem to matter what the ambient temp is . The it drops to 45 PSI 
both @ 1000 RPM . Once it's hot and this is 45 MPH tops stop and go it's 
close to 25 PSI at 1000 and maybe 40 PSI @2500.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Keith Park" <topnotch at nycap.rr.com>
To: <type3 at vwtype3.org>
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2017 4:55 PM
Subject: Re: [T3] I tried seaching on Samba on the subject of engine oil .


> well, first off 10w30 is best for a new engine with tight clearances,
> the thick oil wont get thru a new bearing as well and yes, will bypass the
> cooler more.  As the engine ages increase the viscosity more.  multi vis
> oils will give you the benefit of the viscosity enhancers that the single
> vis ones wont.
>
> A new engine, properly built will run 38 psi or more on the highway with
> 10W30 on a hot day, it will tap on the relief valve a bit, my engine had
> about 12PSI oil pressure at idle with 10w30 after a long haul on the 
> highway
> on a hot day when it was new.
>
> 161Kmi later, I run 25W50, it has about 4PSI oil pressure at idle under 
> the
> same hot conditions and runs 28 or so on the highway.
>
> You DO need the ZDDP, some cams seem to hold up better than others but I
> used the crap oil in the car for some years before I knew and my cam is 
> now
> rather worn last I looked.  Fresh builds were dropping like flies when the
> zinc was removed.
>
> you can add it but remember, too much is bad too.  The Pennzoil racing oil
> 25w50 HAS it in it, but for a lower viscosity the Joe Gibbs is my choice.
>
> Just dont use the Synthetics, its quick death without an oil filter and 
> even
> with, you run 20F or hotter.
>
> Now we see if Vader lurks in the shadows :-)
>
> Keith
>
>
> Topnotch Restorations
> topnotch at nycap.rr.com
> http://www.a383ina68.addr.com/radiorest/main.htm
> 71 Squareback  "Hothe"
> 65 Notchback  "El Baja Rojo"
> 93 RX7  "Redstur"
> 87 Golf  "Winterat" RIP
> 01 Sentra SE "Boremobile"
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: type3-vwtype3.org 
> [mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org]
> On Behalf Of William J
> Sent: Monday, October 16, 2017 12:57 AM
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Subject: [T3] I tried seaching on Samba on the subject of engine oil .
>
> I know I saw a few topics here related to it .
>
> I  tend to search topics when I get an idea in my head , this times it's
> engine oil .
>
> I understand the later relief and control valves. When I rebuilt this 
> engine
> , yes in 1997 I've got it.
>
> Broke it in using Kendall 40 weight when it was still Kendall . It became
> something else or some compamy bought them and the brand name changed ,
> something along those lines.
>
> Until 2005/06 I used it because I had a small supply.
>
> Fast forward to 2007 if I recall and really does it matter I used Castrol
> 40 weight conventional and around 09 it was Castrol 20/50 conventional.
> Really have put at most 2500 miles since then using the 20/50 .
>
> I use VDO add on gauges oil press/ temp/voltmeter , these are just because
> I've had them even before the rebuild so I just have a baseline . VDO cock
> pit , electric.
>
> Point is I came across a post on Samba while sitting deciding on a few
> parts .
>
> It was all about oil type , viscosity , pressure .......... does thick oil
> allow the oil bypass to not allow oil through the cooler - result runs hot
> and depending on bearing condition thick oil may not cool the bearing fast
> enough = short life. .
>
> It comes down to this for me. Can't trust the gauges really we know this. 
> I
> know I never put crap oil in it and never let it go more than 3k between
> changes and I replaced both valves and springs bypass and control , they
> were not stuck in the case I rebuilt.
>
> All I know is thinner oil makes sense yet based on my driving habits where
> this car is driven at most 400 miles per year and it does get hot here I
> don't need freeway driving to see 175 F on my oil temp , however that's
> maybe 60 days out of 365 . Most times it sits at 120 on the 120-300 gauge 
> .
> If my 80 PSI pressure gauge is close then 60PSI startup then drops down to
> 45 @1000 RPM still showing 120 temp . Best I can recall I see 165-180 temp
> on a hot day and 30PSI 1000 RPM at times say 180 22 psi .
>
> Now since I chose all by my self to get caught up in this thought process 
> ,
> can't say I need the zinc content required for flat tappet lifters , not
> sure ,seems to run the same as it has pep wise and I hear no bearing 
> noise.
>
> Based on this and maybe at most between 35 and 40k on it now , lost my old
> note book.
>
> Should I just go to a 10/40 and maybe Valvoline or these 15/40 shell
> Rotella diesel oils , not synthetic or high milage blend , not after all
> this time. What I cannot answer is if oil does flow through my cooler a
> little , 50% or at all. How would I even know .
>
> Not sure about 2500 rpm driving not the same as hot and sitting running 
> the
> RPM's up. Can't say I want to do that . With an auto trans heat blowing 
> off
> the convertor fins at the top may also be a factor.
>
> Here if you dare to look down for an instant no matter the speed you may
> now forget about all I just asked.
>
> JUst asking mostly about oil . Got some Valvoline 10/40 thought i'd try it
> to see if I see a change and I won't see it climbing a long grade mostly
> flat /slight   at 45 MPH max.Pouring the 20/50 it looks pretty thin to me
> 10/40 might look like whole milk. Never lower than 60 F when I start it . 
> I
> tend to think stop and go here it gets hotter than 60 on the freeway 99.5%
> of my driving is 45 and below keep the auto in 2nd because 45 is not often
> not on these surface streets.stop signs and lights and traffic . in 3rd it
> downshifts to much and likes 2nd.
>
>
>
>
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