[T3] Question about 73 T-3 oil cooler mounting.

William J catnine09 at dslextreme.com
Thu Oct 12 11:04:44 PDT 2017

 I know I put the long bolts through from the top although I can't recall 
exactly why . It  was probably because the only bolts I had were on the 73 X 
case and I only removed the heads for the super cooling tin and the bolts 
were already going through from the top. I knew from photo's in the Benley 
they should go in before the cylinders are installed . I should have pulled 
the 73 cylinders and placed the bolt the proper way.  On the 72 case which 
is the one i rebuilt I tossed the tin because it was all bend and out of 
shape and some was missing.

 I have no idea of the history of either engine . At some point someone must 
have worked on the 73 X001 0758 case and put the bolts in the wrong way.

 What's odd to me is that both engines had three of the spacers . The 72 
case is  U503 33105 and both coolers and cases are 10 mm .

 I'm certain I would have used flat washers and lock washers under the nuts 
on the long bolts and need to look again to be sure I actually have three 
spacers as washers on top of the cooler , they certainly looked much thicker 
than a normal flat washer..

 I did try to pull on the long bolt heads and they did not budge and could 
see one seal and it was conpressed even .

 I recall when I first got this car in 85 I removed all the tin , removed 
the cooler and replaced the seals and flushed out the cooler I recall 
soaking it in carb cleaner we had at the ford shop I worked at then flushing 
it in mineral spirits and blowing it out. PLus replacing all the hoses fuel 
and vacuum and injector seals . I even went as far as to remove the fan 
housing and breather stand and flushed out the engine with mineral spirits 
because who even owned it before either rarely changed oil or used cheap oil 
. I just flushed it using one of those siphon type long tipped blow guns as 
best I could. That engine did last from 85 to 97  then suddenly developed a 
rather loud cam speed rattle yet it still ran well. and had good oil 

 To be honest I was surprised to find the long oil cooler bolts in the wrong 
way , I never paid any attention to this , never had a reason to look. I 
used the same crank and cam out of the 72 when I rebuilt it since they 
looked and checked out fine and had standard bearings and left the 10mm head 
studs since not one tried to turn or pull when I torqed the heads down. I 
cleaned the 72 case at work , used the big washer they use for the auto 
trans rebuilds and blew out every oil passage including the crankshaft . 
Used a new oil pump correct German one . I might have 50K on this engine 
now, All new bearings and cylinder hits and had the heads done . More than 
anything else I have oil leaks not bad just drips that get blown everywhere.

 I do want to at least pull the tin and clean the case off and change the 
cooler seals and make certain the cooler fins are clear. I does seem to run 
cool . I even replaced the two oil relief valves and springs when I rebuilt 
it with new ones and have new spares.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Adney" <jadney at vwtype3.org>
To: <type3 at vwtype3.org>
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2017 5:51 AM
Subject: Re: [T3] Question about 73 T-3 oil cooler mounting.

> On 11 Oct 2017 at 22:48, Bobsnotch at aol.com wrote:
>> I would just like to know what was used as far and washers and  lock
>> washers on the one stud and 2 bolts.
> Originally, the bolt heads were on the underside and on top there was a 
> thin
> flat washer, a wavy washer and then the nut. Doing it this way requires
> putting the bolts in place before installing the cylinders.
> The thick spacer washers were used only up thru '69, and those engines
> also had a tiny sheet metal piece installed around the case lugs which 
> kept
> air from leaking out thru the space under the cooler. Starting in '70, the
> spacer washers and the sheet tin bit were dropped, and the cooler seals
> were much thinner.
> When rebuilding a '70 or later case, I usually add a thin wavy washer or 2
> between the cooler and the case, on each of the 3 bolts, but this depends 
> on
> how hard the cooler seals are. Many of the late cooler seals available 
> today
> are quite hard and would require way too much force to compress the cooler
> all the way down against the case.
> I like Bob's approach of using Nylock nuts if you end up installing the 
> nuts on
> the underside.
> -- 
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
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