[T3] I tried seaching on Samba on the subject of engine oil .

Keith Park topnotch at nycap.rr.com
Mon Oct 16 16:55:32 PDT 2017

well, first off 10w30 is best for a new engine with tight clearances,
the thick oil wont get thru a new bearing as well and yes, will bypass the
cooler more.  As the engine ages increase the viscosity more.  multi vis
oils will give you the benefit of the viscosity enhancers that the single
vis ones wont.

A new engine, properly built will run 38 psi or more on the highway with
10W30 on a hot day, it will tap on the relief valve a bit, my engine had
about 12PSI oil pressure at idle with 10w30 after a long haul on the highway
on a hot day when it was new.

161Kmi later, I run 25W50, it has about 4PSI oil pressure at idle under the
same hot conditions and runs 28 or so on the highway.

You DO need the ZDDP, some cams seem to hold up better than others but I
used the crap oil in the car for some years before I knew and my cam is now
rather worn last I looked.  Fresh builds were dropping like flies when the
zinc was removed.

you can add it but remember, too much is bad too.  The Pennzoil racing oil
25w50 HAS it in it, but for a lower viscosity the Joe Gibbs is my choice.

Just dont use the Synthetics, its quick death without an oil filter and even
with, you run 20F or hotter.

Now we see if Vader lurks in the shadows :-)


Topnotch Restorations
topnotch at nycap.rr.com
71 Squareback  "Hothe"
65 Notchback  "El Baja Rojo"
93 RX7  "Redstur"
87 Golf  "Winterat" RIP
01 Sentra SE "Boremobile"
-----Original Message-----
From: type3-vwtype3.org [mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org]
On Behalf Of William J
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2017 12:57 AM
To: type3 at vwtype3.org
Subject: [T3] I tried seaching on Samba on the subject of engine oil .

 I know I saw a few topics here related to it .

I  tend to search topics when I get an idea in my head , this times it's
engine oil .

I understand the later relief and control valves. When I rebuilt this engine
, yes in 1997 I've got it. 

Broke it in using Kendall 40 weight when it was still Kendall . It became
something else or some compamy bought them and the brand name changed ,
something along those lines. 

 Until 2005/06 I used it because I had a small supply.

 Fast forward to 2007 if I recall and really does it matter I used Castrol
40 weight conventional and around 09 it was Castrol 20/50 conventional.
Really have put at most 2500 miles since then using the 20/50 . 

 I use VDO add on gauges oil press/ temp/voltmeter , these are just because
I've had them even before the rebuild so I just have a baseline . VDO cock
pit , electric. 

 Point is I came across a post on Samba while sitting deciding on a few
parts .

 It was all about oil type , viscosity , pressure .......... does thick oil
allow the oil bypass to not allow oil through the cooler - result runs hot
and depending on bearing condition thick oil may not cool the bearing fast
enough = short life. . 

 It comes down to this for me. Can't trust the gauges really we know this. I
know I never put crap oil in it and never let it go more than 3k between
changes and I replaced both valves and springs bypass and control , they
were not stuck in the case I rebuilt. 

 All I know is thinner oil makes sense yet based on my driving habits where
this car is driven at most 400 miles per year and it does get hot here I
don't need freeway driving to see 175 F on my oil temp , however that's
maybe 60 days out of 365 . Most times it sits at 120 on the 120-300 gauge .
If my 80 PSI pressure gauge is close then 60PSI startup then drops down to
45 @1000 RPM still showing 120 temp . Best I can recall I see 165-180 temp
on a hot day and 30PSI 1000 RPM at times say 180 22 psi . 
 Now since I chose all by my self to get caught up in this thought process ,
can't say I need the zinc content required for flat tappet lifters , not
sure ,seems to run the same as it has pep wise and I hear no bearing noise. 

 Based on this and maybe at most between 35 and 40k on it now , lost my old
note book. 
 Should I just go to a 10/40 and maybe Valvoline or these 15/40 shell
Rotella diesel oils , not synthetic or high milage blend , not after all
this time. What I cannot answer is if oil does flow through my cooler a
little , 50% or at all. How would I even know .

 Not sure about 2500 rpm driving not the same as hot and sitting running the
RPM's up. Can't say I want to do that . With an auto trans heat blowing off
the convertor fins at the top may also be a factor. 

 Here if you dare to look down for an instant no matter the speed you may
now forget about all I just asked. 

 JUst asking mostly about oil . Got some Valvoline 10/40 thought i'd try it
to see if I see a change and I won't see it climbing a long grade mostly
flat /slight   at 45 MPH max.Pouring the 20/50 it looks pretty thin to me
10/40 might look like whole milk. Never lower than 60 F when I start it . I
tend to think stop and go here it gets hotter than 60 on the freeway 99.5%
of my driving is 45 and below keep the auto in 2nd because 45 is not often
not on these surface streets.stop signs and lights and traffic . in 3rd it
downshifts to much and likes 2nd. 


This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
VWType3.Org mailing list - type3 at vwtype3.org
To unsubscribe or change subscription options, visit:
If you need more help, contact: gregm at vwtype3.org

More information about the type3-vwtype3.org mailing list