[T3] Starting Again

[Jim Adney]

Welcome back Matt. Hope we can help. See more comments below:

On 12 Aug 2018 at 13:06, matthew n stanfield wrote:

> Hello all, it has been a long while (maybe 6 years) since i have posted 
> to this list. I am hoping to get serious this month and figure out why 
> my Fastback will not start and am hoping for some assistance / advice 
> from this list. (Disclaimer: I am not a mechanic. I enjoy working on my 
> car and can fix most things if i know what is wrong. My understanding of 
> how things work is relatively basic and troubleshooting is not my forte.)
> 
> Brief History:
> 1970 FI Manual Transmission Fastback purchased in 1997. It has spent the 
> better part of the last 21 years in my garage, not running. It ran when 
> i purchased it, but soon after the bearings spun. It took me a long 
> while to track down parts and finally had an engine assembled and ready 
> to put in my car in 2008. Much to my delight it started and we were able 
> to drive it around the block a few times. Being my first engine build, 
> there were some things i did wrong and i ended up tearing the engine 
> down and reassembling it. I never was able to get it started after that. 
> Then life, unemployment, and starting my own business got in the way and 
> i find myself 10 years later with a car sitting in my garage that i 
> would like to drive again.
> 
> Timeline:
> 2004 - Purchased an Engine Case, Rods, Bearings, Lifters, Pistons, and 
> Cylinders from the DDB.
> 2005 - Had the cam shaft polished at local machine shop.
> 2006 - Replaced the clutch.
> 2007 - Replaced all the brake lines, had Jim Adney rebuild Master 
> Cylinder and Rear Wheel Cylinders. Installed DOT 5 Brake Fluid.
> 2008 - Replaced all the rubber Fuel Lines. Installed Engine. Drove car 
> around the block a few times.
> 2011 - Had Jim Adney rebuild top half of fuel pump (it was leaking)

Good history, but could you tell us what happened after 2008 or 2011 that 
kept it off the road. Would it just not start after that?

> Nest Steps:
> After reviewing some eMails i thought were relevant to my situation, i 
> came up with a list of 25 next steps. The first few are listed below for 
> your comment:
> 
>  1. Charge and install battery (probably will need replaced)
>  2. Check FI system for relay clicks - one on key turn and one a second
>     later
>  3. Verify spark plugs are sparking
>  4. Check injectors by loosening the distributor cap and rotating rotor
>     CW with key on.
>  5. Clean and test injectors for fuel spray.
>  6. Check / adjust valve clearance.
>  7. Check and adjust timing.

Those are all good things to check. Since it looks like the last thing you did 
was reinstall the fuel pump, make sure you have the hoses connected 
correctly.

Then: 

1) Yes, put a charger on the battery and let it sit on slow charge for several 
days. Do NOT try to fast charge it; that will only damage it at this point. As 
you say, it may not be salvagable after all this time.  

4) Probably unnecessary to mess with the dist to do a basic test of the 
injectors. Assuming you passed test 2), turn the key ON, and then, at the 
engine, slowly open the throttle. You should hear a series of clicks as 1 pair 
of injectors fire. Then, using a wrench on the generator nut, turn the crank 1 
full revolution CW and repeat the test for the other pair of injectors.  

How long has this gas been in your tank? If it's been in there for years, it's 
quite possible that it's gummed up things that are keeping gas from getting 
to the combustion chamber. When the pump runs, can you hear gas flowing 
thru the hoses at the engine? Do you have pressure there?

You can remove the gas gauge sender from the top of the tank and look 
down there with a flashlight to see what the tank looks like inside. It should 
be clean and shiny. If it's rusty, you will need to remove the tank and get it 
cleaned out, probably at a local radiator shop. If it looks fuzzy down there, 
then that's residue from old gas.

If it's fuzzy, you can try adding a can of Seafoam and running the pump for a 
day or two and see if that cleans it up. Otherwise, drain and take to 
somewhere to get it steamed out. If you run the pump for a long time, you'll 
need to have your charger connected the whole time. The pump will draw 
4-8 Amps.

Do NOT let anyone talk you into any kind of rubberized or plastic coating 
inside the gas tank. Phosphate coatings are okay, but the rubber ones will 
clog passages in there that you'll never be able to clear.


Let us know what you find.

-- 
*******************************
Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
*******************************