[T3] Still too tight

[Keith Park]

Yea know, I was curious enough about this to have googled it today.
DIdnt get any answers but I remember when I first broke in this engine with
the new cylinder set I complained to Jake Raby that my oil pressure was in
the toilet and he suggested not to worry about it and get the break in oil
out of there as early as 100 miles.  That was a different oil, Brad Penn,
and I didnt have this problem then but
this is Joe GIbbs... but yea, its only in there for the Cam, ya think 40
miles is enough for that?

Ill get that oil out of there, and I can check the sump and filter for any
signs of bad things too...

Keith




I have been following this interesting thread for some time now...  
everyone loves a mystery.

I had an idea about what is happening, and I called a good friend of 
mine who has built more engines in his long and varied career than the 
rest of us all put together (VW, Porsche, race engines of EVERY stripe 
including for some of the biggest names in racing and airplane engines), 
and he agreed with me 100%.

Dump the break in oil and put in 20-50 or whatever you have successfully 
used in the past.  95% of the reason to use break in oil has to do with 
the rings.  Yours were done a long time ago.

Changing the oil is cheap and there is NO reason not to do it.  I think 
your problems may go away.

Don Robertson
donrob at fastmail.com
905 566-0000 (cell)






On 2018-08-29 08:29, Jim Adney wrote:
> On 28 Aug 2018 at 20:40, Keith Park wrote:
> 
>> I checked the end play, it was still at .003, I set it up to .005, 
>> engine
>> is back in and same problem, its tight when fully up to temp, still 
>> cranks
>> but slowly and is stiff when turning over by hand.
>> 
>> Runs well, no expensive sounds, put about another 15 miles on it and
>> little if any improvement. It quickly free's up after its been off 
>> just a
>> few minutes.
> 
> I don't know what to think, Keith. David is right, that whatever the
> problem is,
> it must be something that can cool down quickly, which excludes most of 
> the
> internal engine components. Could there be some sort of problem with 
> the
> fan?
> 
> Is the engine still tight with the clutch pedal depressed? Yes, takes 2 
> people
> to check.
> 
> I suggest that you check the oil pressure control valves, to make sure 
> they
> are installed correctly, with the right pistons and springs, and are 
> not seized
> in their bores.
> 
> Could you get the engine hot and then remove the rocker shafts quickly
> enough to see if removing them frees up the engine? (Or maybe just run 
> the
> engine with the valve covers off long enough to verify that there's oil 
> coming
> out each of the pushrods.)
> 
> When you dropped the engine this time, I assume you didn't take it all 
> the
> way apart, so you don't know about any possible bearing problems 
> inside,
> right? But, as Dave points out, how could that cool down fast enough?
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