[T3] Still trying to figure out the 73 T-3 FI issue

William J catnine09 at dslextreme.com
Thu Jan 4 16:01:58 PST 2018

 I know the cooler has the original foam pad , it's still there. I have no 
idea since it's been 20 years since I rebuilt the engine how the fins look .

 Like I said last time I took the tin off in the car was 85 when I bought 
it. When I rebuilt it I had the engine out. I looked at it today and it 
seems lot's of stuff needs to be removed to get the left upper tin off and I 
don't know if it can be removed with the fire wall tin in place. If I were 
still 36 no problem now at my age it's not so easy .

 It does leak engine oil , more on the left side yet I don't see wet oil by 
the cooler since I can see that area tin on. I need to find a way to clean 
all the oil off and perhapes use the dye sold to tell where it's leaking . 
Even then you can't see many areas like most cars since all the tin covers 
most of it. Before I do anything with the injectors removed and still 
connected see it any have a leak at the tip and have a good spray pattern . 
I know installer the sleeves is a had job. Last time I used some ford sealer 
I had and still have and thought it was a good idea . It just made sliding 
the sleeves on more dfficult . I'm not sure how I will do it this time. Any 
suggestions? Silicone paste or spray? The ones I got are not the old cloth 
cover type they look like wrapped cloth on the outside from Cip1.com . I 
also used the same ford sealer on the runner to head intakes . Looking at 
the old heads the spacer gaskets did not stick to the runners or heads. Wish 
I saved the old ones so I'd have a set to prepare before I do this.

 I got the runner sleeves and head exhaust gaskets. I have a bad leak on the 
right side where the EMPI header fits the right heat exchanger . When I 
removed the stock muffler the two pipes from the muffler to heat exchanger 
were thin so I couldn't use the stock muffler and had to resort using this 
header. Thing is the exchanger pipes had rust scale and are now a smaller OD 
and the stock VW clamps won't seal well . I think if I remove the header and 
cut some thin sheet aluminum I have and wrap it around these it might fill 
the gap and stop the leak . Won't be easy yet what else can I do? I can feel 
the leak and hear it above the valves on cold start so I need to deal with 

 I prefered the stock exhaust I had and now wish I saved it , perhaps a 
muffler shop could have welded new short pipes on. I didn't have internet 
then didn't exist and a new stock T-3 muffler was $600 then. At that time 
all that was offered were headers with a muffler hanging down out the on the 
right, some better than others , all pretty much the same thing.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Adney" <jadney at vwtype3.org>
To: <type3 at vwtype3.org>
Sent: Monday, January 01, 2018 3:24 PM
Subject: Re: [T3] Still trying to figure out the 73 T-3 FI issue

> On 1 Jan 2018 at 13:48, William J wrote:
>>  I know more air = more fuel not richer like a vacuum leak would cause.
> Vacuum leak = more air = more fuel, so NOT richer. That's the whole point.
>>  Is it the time the head temp sensor heats up added to the time the
>> AAR is open so you have more fuel which is richer and more air because
>> of the AAR being open.
> No, NOT richer. The MAP sensor and the ECU try to keep it the same. The
> compensation may not be perfect, but they try. (It's a primitive system, 
> after
> all.)
>> This is the part that does not make sense. Cold the AAR is open =
>> more air yet why would the idle increase 200 RPM not right away yet
>> after a few minutes?
> If your AAR is sticking, which is common, it may take a couple minutes of
> vibration and some warming to break it free. Just guessing here.
>> I know there is some spec at what point the HTC at certain temps
>> reads an ohm drop and some spec on how long an electric AAR stays open
>> and gradually closes.
> OTOH, the temp sensors DO change the richness.
>> The AAR seems to be closing yet not in the 12 minute so called time
>> frame . It seems to vary since it may stick. I'm not even certain the
>> RPM sould rise at all with the AAR open . Some say it will and others
>> say it is only supposed to allow more air to compensate for the HTC
>> richer mix.
> The AAR is trying to compensate for the increased friction in a cold 
> engine.
> In a perfect world, it would not change the idle speed, but in reality it 
> over
> compensates on some engines and undercompensates in others. It's just a
> matter of manufacturing tolerances and tolerance buildup.
> None of this is anything to worry about.
>> Also while the runners are off replace the oil cooler seals which is no
>> something I look foreward to. I haven't had the tin off in a long time
>> and can't recall if the left upper tin can come off just by remoing the
>> screws on the fire wall tin just enough to sneak the left upper tin
>> out.
> That's a big job and probably unnecessary since you rebuilt this engine 
> once
> with new seals. If you decide to go ahead, in addition to the air runners 
> and
> injectors, you'll also need to remove the distributor and the generator, 
> but
> getting the tin off is the hard part. While you're in there, you should 
> make
> sure that your oil cooler has the foam pad that keeps cooling air from
> bypassing over the top of the cooler. And check the fins on the cooler to
> make sure they aren't clogged with dirt.
> -- 
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
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