[T3] I've got another question , same one I asked a while back.

[William Jahn]

 I noticed when I was fixing the cold start valve hose in the parking lot
that I have the temp sensor in the IAD un plugged . I did this because if
it was plugged in the engine struggled between 1000 RPM and 2200 RPM if it
was in park. By struggle I mean the rpm was not a smooth climb it would
sort of hang and drop between the rpm range above. It also had a miss fire
at idle , not a back fire but an erratic miss .

 When I drove it I didn't feel any miss yet heard slight popping out the
exhaust when I let off the gas.

 I know the right Empi header to the right heat exchanger leaks I can hear
and feel this and that may be the popping I hear . ON that miss i can't
imagine that is related to the exhaust leak and I saw this because it's
been leaking there for 20 years and didn't have that erratic miss or
struggle between those RPM ranges .

 I know it has the proper ECU and throttle switch  and pressure sensor
since Jim provided that info. I also checked every engine ground and redid
all and that seemed to help for a while then it was right back doing this.
I also know all a vacuum leak really does is allow more air and as far as I
know does not make for a richer mixture unless the leak is at the intake
gaskets and injector seals . I do know all for runner short hoses are oily
, I have new ones yet not the intake gaskets .

 I have read one can replace the paper on the intake spacer . I thought of
pushing back the old oily short hoses and removing the IAD without removing
the runners . It's possible yet does not look easy .

 Basically what I'm asking is should I repair the exhaust leak first then
see and it this doesn't help go for the short hoses and replace all the
vacuum lines off the IAD . If I could get two FI intake spacer/gaskets I
would go that route . I don't think the old ones are cracked and may be
able to just make new paper gaskets.

William

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