[T3] I still need to change the brake fluid.

William Jahn willjahn975 at gmail.com
Mon Jul 30 20:28:55 PDT 2018


I wanted to add yet forgot. I did replace the disc pads this year and the
pistons moved back easy , I did one than the other . Once I did one I would
pump the pedal about 2 to 3 times to bring the pads out and they don't drag
and nothing happened to make anything worse. I've read on old master
cylinders like mine certainly is that if one bleeds brakes moving the pedal
until it's is down all the way to get the air out if the master bore has
any pitting it can ruin the seals. The point or main concern of mine is I
want to change the fluid because it's long over due and don't want to end
up ruining anything simply because I cannot afford a new master or anything
else right now . It's will have to be buy bit by bit until I can rebuild
the calipers and perhaps replace the master and wheel cylinders are not
very expensive yet the rest is. I know the outer seals on the calipers at
least the left side is torn a bit the outer one is. I was hoping to get by
by just gravity bleeding just to change the fluid since so far I have no
leaks and hope the metal lines are ok. They look  fine outside yet that
tells me nothing . Since I got this car in 85 I have changed the rear shoes
twice because I tried to rebuild the rear wheel cylinders and one leaked so
I replaced them and the shoes. I replaced the front caliper hoses in maybe
1998 and the pads twice . All I know it what I did since 85 , no idea what
was done by the PO . I'm just talking brakes . I've done all other fluid
changes on a regular basis.  I wanted the change the brake fluid at least a
year ago yet didn't because I saw all these videos of rusted broken
bleeders . We don't have road salt here and not one thing or one bolt of
this car is rusted all the bolts come right out and always have . All I
want to do is get that old fluid out and last I bleed it I got it all out
until is was clear and this year I removed as much of the master reservoir
fluid so as not to run it dry and added new fluid and that's as far as I've
gone since the new pads. I think the calipers I can rebuild , I don't need
to go for the brand new look or new pistons just polish off what might be
rust and install new seals along with new rubber lines because as far as I
know the rears are original yet they don't lock the rear wheels I tested to
make certain. then go from there. I did wire brush around each bleeder and
added penetrating oil to all .

 William

On Mon, Jul 30, 2018 at 7:51 PM, William Jahn <willjahn975 at gmail.com> wrote:

>  What is the main cause of bleeders getting stuck? I'm not saying mine are
> yet I haven't tried to turn them since 1997 0r 98 . Back then they were
> easy to break loose . I realize if you live were they salt the roads it
> makes things worse and also they can get stuck where they seat . Mainly
> it's the threads that would concern me .
>
>  My thinking is for the thread to rust it has to come from outside and
> work it's way down . The bores are clear of any crud and I've never opened
> the bottom ones on my 73 . They look good on the outside .
>
> William
>
>
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