[T3] I still need to change the brake fluid.

[William Jahn]

I noticed when I replaced the disc pads which requires pushing the pistons
in which forces fluid back into the reservoir and since mine was just level
with the wall that separates the F & R circuits I didn't need to drain any
fluid out . Then I sucked out as much as the old fluid as I could , what I
sucked out did have small flakes of rust which it didn't have before and
the fluid was pretty dark even before this. Those rust flakes could have
come from the calipers or metal lines to the master or the metal lines from
the reservoir to the master.

 I intend to rebuild the calipers . I think I can still use the old Anti
rattle clips and the two pins per caliper they just have surface rust no
pits . I am missing the 2 piston anti rotation tins on the right . Some
places sell the entire kit including new caliper lock plates to spindle and
the anti rotation parts . Can't the lock plates be reused ? I didn't
consider bleeding with the calipers off through the rubber lines  makes
sense to do this . Since I'm changing fluid and most likely staying with
DOT 3/4 could I just allow the fluid to drain out both the front lines and
continue to pour in more new fluid to remove what crud my be in there
rather than bleed as you suggested then try to see if gravity bleeding with
some pumping at assist . I understand your point of capping the hoses and
bleeding which will churn up any loose rust much better than just allowing
it to drain.

William

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On Tue, Jul 31, 2018 at 7:33 AM, Jim Adney <jadney at vwtype3.org> wrote:

> On 30 Jul 2018 at 19:51, William Jahn wrote:
>
> > What is the main cause of bleeders getting stuck?
>
> Rust in the threads
>
> --
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
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