[T3] Brake Lights...

Jim Adney jadney at vwtype3.org
Fri Mar 2 13:07:49 PST 2018


> Forwarded from John Jonic:
> 
>  Just thought....uh...I didn't mark the switches from my old, now-replaced, 
> master cylinder...so, one of the switches in my collection must be a dud. Any 
> way to test?...except by taking out and putting back every damn switch I 
> have?  That is...putting the known bad one back in, then testing all the 
> others in the other switch hole?

Some of your switches are good, some are bad. I can sometimes test them 
by choosing a nail that will just fit thru the hole in the nose of a switch and 
filing that tip flat, so it won't damage anything when I push it into the switch.

By trial and error, you can figure out which two terminals close when you 
push in on that nail. Once you've figured that out, you can use that to test 
the rest of your switches.

> Also...in my hallway downstairs, had two old master cylinders which I was 
> going to try before opting for your Rebuild.   Had a switch in hand which fit 
> easily into all the portholes hand tight.   But if two of those portholes are 
> smaller, and if the larger ones are supposed to be for the switches....what's 
> that mean?   How'd this elec switch fit so well into all holes, even the 
> "smaller" hard-line portholes?

As I explained to you earlier, the threads on all the ports are the same. It's 
the small hole at the bottom of the threads that varies. You have to look at 
the bottom of the port.

Ports meant to accept brake lines have small holes, so there's plenty of room 
for the mushroom end of the line to seal against.

Ports meant for switches have larger holes, which helps more of the 
inevitable air bubble to get out.

-- 
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Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
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