[T3] 73 type 3 FI ignition condenser ?

[Keith Park]

Just to add in, I have no issue with the quality of the Bosch parts,
but my favorite points set was the Standard brand Lubripoints,
they were the true cadillac of what was out there not only for their
lubricating wick but they were ventilated, no teat to change your dwell and
timing around, they held adjustment perfectly on the contact surface and you
could re-gap without ever using a points file.  The rubbing blocks were a
bit softer than Id like but that just meant re-gapping every 6-8Kmi and you
could easily get 30K or more out of these points sets.  The softer block
combined with the lube will protect your cam as well.

Unfortunately, they are NLA, except thru ebay or hoarders.  Napa does have
a premium brand ventilated point avail for our cars and Ive had no issues
with it but i havent got 30 years of practice with it either.

Keith


Topnotch Restorations
topnotch at nycap.rr.com
http://www.topnotchresto.com
71 Squareback  “Hothe”
65 Notchback  “El Baja Rojo”
93 RX7  “Redstur”
95 Chrysler Cirrus Lxi "Cirfogsalot"
"hanging out at the tail end of the bell
curve, and loving every minute of it!" 
-----Original Message-----
From: type3-vwtype3.org [mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org]
On Behalf Of Jim Adney
Sent: Sunday, March 17, 2019 12:31 AM
To: type3 at vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] 73 type 3 FI ignition condenser ?

On 16 Mar 2019 at 11:10, William Jahn wrote:

> I saw one on-line store selling  2 versions of Bosch points that fit
> the later Type 3´s one with the stronger spring. J-Bugs has that
> choice. 

I measured the spring tension with a fisherman's scale, which 
indicated that the 044 points pulled ~1.5 oz while the stronger one 
was ~2.5 oz. If you've read the Bill Fisher book, you know that one 
racer trick is to double up the 044 spring to get twice the spring 
force to get reliable operation at very high rpm. The stronger spring 
points makes this easy, but it's unnecessary and counterproductive 
for stock operation at normal rpm.

>  I got a set of NGK plus B6HS. Their site says not to use anti-seize
> yet when I emailed them they said just use a small amount and if not
> using a torque wrench just screw in until it stops and give them 1/3
> to 1/2 turn . The Bentley states 20 to 25 foot pounds and also states
> to use anti-seize and as most know anti-seize acts as a lube and you
> end up with a higher torque .

I agree that the 20-25 ft-lbs is too high. I use MoS2 antiseize and 
tighten to touch, then a bit snugger. I think the only time I tried 
to torque to 25 I stripped out the threads in the head. I'll never do 
that again.

>  I looked at Bosch´s site , they don´t list much and what I see they
> are all WR8AC with 5k ohm´s , I´d rather not add resistance where it
> was never designed to be.

5k is no problem, simply because the current is so tiny. Keep in mind 
that the rotor is 5k, and earlier 6 V cars used carbon core wire 
which had 20-50k, depending on the length, and still worked just 
fine.

If you use resistor plugs, you can switch the SP connectors to ones 
with zero resistance, which eliminates the connector as a potential 
trouble spot. I have those connectors if you want to switch. While I 
haven't done it yet, switching to resistor plugs is actually a nice 
upgrade, since that gets you a fresh resistor with every SP change.

OTOH, I still have some NOS W8ACs and W8APs for anyone who prefers to 
stay old school.

-- 
*******************************
Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
*******************************

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