[T3] On my 73 square , what should I look at on the breather with a PCV?

Tue Sep 10 17:06:19 PDT 2019

With all the testing I've done I've lost track. I'm pretty sure before I
fixed the power relay it only had the erratic idle when the air temp sensor
was connected not the popping out the exhaust . I only heard that when I
had the exhaust leak on the right heat Ex Changer to the EMPI header.

 I don't have another air temp sensor to compare with. I connect to it with
leads I made from the test connector that used to go to the timing ring
that fix a plug wire. I've checked in cold and dependent on air temp last
time it was 230 ohm @ 80* F then I drove it and checked it when the IAD was
pretty hot to the touch and it read 170 ohm which is not very scientific.
From a chart I found @  150 *F it should be well below that. Do you have
any chart for the air temp sensor? I can have it connected when I start the
car cold say ambient 80*F and it will run fine, in fact it runs a bit
better give it 5 minutes to warm up then the erratic miss begins and I
can't raise the RPM up without it becoming unsteady like trying to hold a
steady 1500 RPM it will hang there and fluctuate it's not fluid , once I
unplug the air temp I can raise the RPM and it reacts smoothly and fluid. I
get the same affect if I raise the RPM at the gas pedal or at the throttle.

 It was not long  ago when I could let it sit for a week turn the key and
it would fire right up . Then I needed to cycle the key 3 times then it
became 7 times so I added the primer switch . I replaced the ign switch
because it was original and didn't release so at times the wipers would not
work unless I backed the key off a tiny bit. Now it snaps back. I hoped
that might be part of the issue. In 2009 when I first noticed this issue
and only because I left it running and got something out of the back and
heard the erratic miss yet didn't hear any popping even with a leaky
exhaust. For a long time now when I first start it the RPM is 800 then it
climbs to 1200  once I back out of the garage or if I just give it some
gas. The AAR is open so I would expect the RPM to raise right off, it's not
like it's thick oil in very cold weather.  Once I drive it and the AAR
closes it's always 850 in drive and 1000 in park. After I fixed the power
relay then I'd see it drop to 500 RPM then is was 550 then 800 then 850 in
drive then that stopped all by itself, which makes no sense to me. It's not
like the ECU adapts and learns.   I have no trouble adjusting the idle
speed at all that works fine.
 The head temp sensor in there now can read over 2500 ohm @ 80*F then I
checked it and it read 1950 at the same temp I have another one does not
change tested it in water with an ohm meter connected and marked down the
readings.

 The main issue is I cannot tell if it's rich or lean. I never see black
smoke out the exhaust like low voltage would produce I know what that looks
and acts like.

 The way it acts is one of those things one would have to actually hear it
and see the tach and hear the erratic miss fire because it's really
difficult to put into words. I've been living with this since 2009 as far
as I know and it probably was acting this way before this, I was only by
unplugging the air temp sensor just to see that I noticed how things
changed . I wish I'd kept better records. I know I still had the air temp
sensor connected in 2012 because when I when to the body shop when they
were fixing the damage caused by the red light runner the fool there was
gunning the engine and I could hear the struggle in the RPM. It ran fine in
2006 everything connected . I recall unplugging the air temp guy only in
2009 and once before this and before it seemed to just worse with it
unplugged.

 I never looked for trouble unless I noticed it running odd. I just changed
the oil and lubed the front end and changed the trans fluid and plugs and
points , adjusted the rear brakes and checked the brake fluid and adjusted
the valves.

 When I first got it I did everything because all the hoses and seals were
shot and the VR was rust and after it ran great.

 I know I'm repeating myself . I can live with the air temp unplugged if
needed been doing it for close to 11 years. It just bugs me because it
should work the way it was designed and it did.

 I was going to buy more SAE 40 from autozone and now the fools don't carry
it so now the only way I can get good oil is order it on line and pay for
shipping or have Orielly order it and go pick it up , I asked if their
brand name is valvoline and was told it was not. I have no faith in multi
grade oil. where I live the only place close is Autozone and it's engine
oil that I can't get they only offer modern multi grade even stopped
selling 10/40 Valvoline yet they have 20/50 racing oil or Castrol and STP .
I'd run my engine till hot and the Castrol drained out like water.

On Tue, Sep 10, 2019 at 3:06 PM Jim Adney <jadney at vwtype3.org> wrote:

> On 10 Sep 2019 at 11:29, William Jahn wrote:
>
> > I read on rennlist about the slop where the trigger points mount that
> > it should be set to the center point since it will alter the point when
> > the injectors fire .
>
> That's a red herring, because Bosch advanced the injector timing by about
> 30 degrees in '72. That huge change made only a tiny difference, and then
> only when the engine was cold.
>
> > Pertronix told me these units can fail by not working or fail where it
> > can cause a miss yet that does not explain why it does not miss with
> > the air temp unplugged.
>
> Yes, we know the Pertronix is not the problem.
>
> >  The only thing that makes sense in my mind is either there is a voltage
> > drop to the ECU from the power relay.
>
> What makes NO sense is the fact that you found and fixed a huge problem
> IN the relay and didn't see any change in operation. Fixing that should
> have
> made a huge improvement. Sure, check for a problem in the wires, but those
> are probably fine, unless they've been messed with a lot.
>
> > or high resistance in the air temp sensor wires to the ECU or perhaps
> > the head temp sensor to ECU
>
> It can't be those wires, because any "high" resistance in those wires or
> connections would still be small compared to the resistance of the sensors
> themselves.
>
> > or the air temp sensor itself is erratic when connected.
>
> That's possible. Have you tried a different sensor?
>
> You might also GENTLY pull back the boot on the sensor connector and
> check to make sure the wires in there are okay. It might be that just
> moving
> the cable is what's making the difference..
>
> > I've checked the fuel pressure several times and it's always 30 PSI .
>
> When there are problems, I prefer to test it while driving, because a
> restriction in the line, a clogged filter, bad pump (or bad power to the
> pump)
> or kinked hose, can still source enough fuel to hold 30 psi at idle, while
> failing at speed, where the demand for fuel is greater. Nevertheless, you
> report this problem only at idle, with no problem while driving, so I'm
> thinking
> this is not your problem.
>
> --
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
>
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