[T3] Two Tests
willjahn975 at gmail.com
Tue Sep 17 17:44:40 PDT 2019
I haven't had that ECU out since 2009. I just removed the old trim cover
the two screws and tipped it back to see what version 028 0r 048 I had in
there when you asked a while back. It's not difficult to get the ECU out
but getting that plug back in since on mine that rubber half moon shaped
grommet doesn't fit over the harness cover , never did. I have to fight to
get it lined up then check the connector to make sure it's in the slides
and seated fully then get the gray cover slid on then finally the metal
clamp. Using a small mirror and flashlight then fight to get the units
holder cover with the seal back in place . The trim panel went on ok.
All I managed to do is find out I don't have a wiring issues, made sure
the plugs forked connectors were all a good fit and for giggles I used
electronic cleaner and sprayed the plug twice and using Q tips soaked in
cleaner went over the ECU board tabs both sides , quite a bit of black came
off even though they looked clean. Not that that's going to fix the issue.
It might have a better connection now that it's at least clean.
I looked at both the 72 and this 048 and it looked similar yet you really
can't see much through that slot , didn't see any components fall out when
I faced the plug end down and nothing rattled inside for whatever that is
worth. Looked pretty clean inside. From the little I could see under the
main board all the solder joints looked good on top of the main board I
didn't see any burnt components. I cleaned the ground tab on the ECU and
the MPS. The highest resistance I saw on all the grounds from the ECU to
the engine case was .05 ohm most were .02 ohm with the meter leads touching
the meter was zeroed out.
Is that the only spot they could place the ECU , man!!!!!!! I'm getting to
old for this.
On Tue, Sep 17, 2019 at 2:37 PM Jim Adney <jadney at vwtype3.org> wrote:
> On 17 Sep 2019 at 10:33, William Jahn wrote:
> > I do find quite a bit of varied info when reading different D-jet sites.
> Yes, and there's a lot of it that's misleading.
> > Then I need to check the wires from the ECU to each component just to
> > make certain TS1's 2 leads are not crossed or grounded with any one of
> > the other leads.
> There's certainly no problem with checking this, but I seriously doubt if
> there's short somewhere inside your harness. I've never heard of that
> happening, although it's possible out at the ends, where the individual
> are exposed and where then tend to get abused.
> > Yet since the one you have runs rich it may not have anything to do
> > with TS1 or TS2 internal ECU it could be any of the circuits and there
> > seem to be quite a few and
> That's exactly right. It could be any of those circuits and the temp
> circuits could be working properly.
> > I wanted to ask. I know you removed the EGR and plugged the ports,
> > did you remove the EGR relay? I ask because the Bosch tester does not
> > seem to look at that circuit.
> I capped the exhaust port on the heat exchanger and the intake port on the
> EGR valve, but I left everything else in place. My relay is still there
> and I can
> still hear the EGR valve click when I turn the key ON, but nothing is
> thru it. I did it this way because I didn't want to bother with sorting
> out all the
> wiring and worrying about what might short out to what. It's been fine
> way, although it leaves the engine compartment a bit more crowded than I'd
> One of the actual reasons I did it this way was that the original EGR
> was still there when I got the car, but it was falling apart. I thought
> someday I could redo the failed silver-soldered joint and reinstall it,
> just to
> see if that was feasible. I still think it would be interesting to
> reinstall it and
> see if I notice any change in performance.
> If you removed the relay, what did you do with the loose wires?
> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
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