[T3] 2056 engine update

Keith Park topnotch at nycap.rr.com
Fri Aug 7 18:11:24 PDT 2020

I used to use plastigauge, but if things move while your torquing them you
get a false measurement, bore gauge is preferred but I dont want to damage

I mainly want to check the rod and main bearings, when they are torqued in
place.  TRUST NOTHING these days, I had the last build nearly lock up twice
and although it appeared to be the break in oil, still...  there was damage
to the main bearings, I did check those but with Snap gauges... I really
want to be darn sure this time.  That crank felt fine when all torqued in
place, never bound up any time during or after assembly but something was


Topnotch Restorations
topnotch at nycap.rr.com
71 Squareback  "Hothe"
65 Notchback  "El Baja Rojo"
93 RX7  "Redstur"
13 Subaru Outback "Blendin"
-----Original Message-----
From: type3-vwtype3.org [mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org]
On Behalf Of Jim Adney
Sent: Friday, August 07, 2020 9:04 PM
To: type3 at vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] 2056 engine update

On 7 Aug 2020 at 19:38, Keith Park wrote:

> SO.how do you check the bearings with a bore gauge and not damage them?
> That bore gauge puts some decent pressure on things and the bearings are
> mighty soft.

Have you ever tried Plastigauge? It's a pain with our engines, but it works.

Alternatively, clearances that are huge should be easily measurable with a 
caliper and clearances that are too tight should be easily noticable when
try to turn the crank after tightening the case around it.

OTOH, the scars left by a bore gauge are probably completely superficial 
and ignorable. The spring force behind them probably varies by brand.

Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA

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