[T3] cranks and clearances

Jim Adney jadney at vwtype3.org
Sun Aug 16 12:45:29 PDT 2020

One thing that I've always done, that may or may not actually be helpful, is to 
burnish some MoS2 powder into all the bearing surfaces as I assemble an 
engine. I use a Dow-Corning paste, Molycote G or U, and rub it into the 
bearing surface with a finger. I think I may have rubbed some into the lifter 
bores, too. Anyplace that sees rubbing between a hard and soft surface.

I may still have some small tubes of this paste. A little goes a very long way. 
I bought a tiny little can in the early '70s and that can is still half full.

To be fair, I don't know if this really helps, but MoS2 is an excellent solid 
boundary layer lubricant that can help with startup.

Another thing I've done with a freshly rebuilt engine is to connect a small 
tube between the engines in 2 cars by removing both oil pressure switches 
and letting the running engine pump oil into the new engine, priming that 
system under a bit of pressure. I'll underfill the oil in the new engine and add 
oil to the running engine as its level drops. Once the oil in the new engine 
comes up to full, I'll try to start the new engine.

Once both engines are running, there should be minimal flow thru my tube, 
so I can leave them both running for a 20 minute initial breakin of the new 
engine, keeping an eye on the oil levels in both. Then both can be shut 
down, the tube removed, and the oil pressure switches reinstalled.

The clearances you measured sounded fine to me, but I've never paid much 
attention to clearances. Would there be somewhere you could take your 
crank to make sure it is STRAIGHT? All the individual measurements could 
be fine, but if the crank had a bit of bend to it, that would ruin everything. A 
skilled crank person can easily straighten a bent crank. It's not as big a deal 
as it might sound.

Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA

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